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NOTES 



OF A 



SHOET AMEEICAN TOUR. 



BY 



WM. SMITH, 

n 
BANK EH, MONIAIVE. 



DUMFRIES : 

PRINTED AT THE COURIER OFFICE BY m'DIARMID A^'D MITCHELL. 

1873. 



•i 



El i^s 






The following notes are re-printed from the Dumfries 
AND Galloway Courier, to which they ivere contri- 
buted at the request of the editor. They pret&nd to 
nothing heyond being a simple record of what the writer 
saw and noted during a short Transatlantic trip, and 
nothing would be more gratifying to him than to hnow 
that the information which on some points of Ameri- 
can and Canadian life he has been able to bring together 
in these pages may prove useful to any under whose notice 
they may come, and who are thinUng of trying their 
fortunes in the Far West. 

Union Bank, Moniaive, 
lOth June, 1873. 



NOTES OF A SHOET AMEEIOAN TOUE. 



Chapter I. 

THE VOYAGE OUT — NEW YORK — UP THE HUDSON. 

Having long cheri&hed a desire to visit the other side of the 
Atlantic, we were fortunately enabled in the autumn of 
1872 to gratify that wish, and left Liverpool, per the Cunard 
royal mail screw steamer Cuba, on the 31st August. We 
arrived in Liverpool the day previous to sailing, and took an 
early opportunity of visiting the good ship lying at anchor in 
the river. After inspecting our berths, we happened to see how 
it is that the high state of discipline for which the Cunard 
liners are famous, is kept up. The crew were in the act of 
being drilled. We saw them lowering the boats by numbers — 
such as No. 1, 2, &c. ; then an imaginary alarm of fire was 
raised, when the crew were all instantly at their posts, carrying 
buckets and wet blankets to subdue the supposed flames. A 
variety of other manoeuvres were gone through with extra- 
ordinary steadiness and precision. The steamship Cuba is a 
splendid vessel of over 3000 tons burthen. As you are aware, 
the Cunard Coy. have a magnificent fleet of steamships plying 
between Liverpool, New York, and Boston ; these have long 
been noted for their safety, speed, and good management, and 
since the line was established some 30 years ago they have not 
lost a single vessel. This of itself speaks volumes in their 
favour, and is a sufficient reason why they merit the confidence 
of the public. On Saturday, 31st August, at .3 p.m., we left the 
Prince's landing stagp per tender, and getting on board the 
Cuba found all in bustle and confusion — an enormous quantity 
of lugejage being in process of being stowed away. Then there 
was the leave-taking of friends who had come out in the tender, 
and who, as the latter left us, waved a kindly farewell. At 
last the gun was fired, the anchor weighed, and we were 
fairly afloat. 



The Cuba is commanded by Captain Moodie, who is the 
genuine type of a true, hardy sailor. He is a Scotchman, a 
native of Montrose, has been 33 years at sea, has crossed the 
Atlantic 319 times, and many a terrible gale and heavy sea has 
he encountered. His very look imparts confidence, it has 
such a frank and pleasing expression, and his kindly and 
considerate demeanour rendered him a universal favourite. In 
addition to a crew of 120, there were 240 cabin passengers on 
board (no steerage passengers were taken.) Amongst the 
voyagers were several notables — Pauline Lucca, the famous 
prima donna ; Miss Kellog, the celebrated American songstress ; 
Eubenstein, the great pianist ; Winiesky, the Polish violinist, 
called by some wags " Wine and Whiskey ;" and last, but not 
the least distinguished, Edmund Yates, the popular novelist, 
who was on his way to America to lecture on English manners 
and customs. There were a great m-any Americans returning 
home after making the tour of Europe. The remainder were 
English, German, and a sprinkling of Scotchmen. We had very 
comfortable sleeping cabins, about 6 feet by 8 square. Sus- 
pended from the roof of our cabin were two life-preservers ; 
fortunately their capacities never required to be tested. The 
principal saloon of the Cuba is beautifully fitted up, and is 
capable of dining 200 or so ; of course there are always a few 
passenger? either below or on deck when the weather is fine. 
Our first dinner was rather a stiff affair as we were all strangers 
to each other. However, that feeling soon wears off", and it is 
not long before those seated near each other get acquainted, and 
friendships spring up which continue during the voyage, and in 
many instances prove lasting. The seats at table are all allotted 
beforehand by the chief steward. Breakfast is at half-past 8, 
lunch at 12, dinner at , 4, tea at half-past 7, supper at 9, 
lights put out at 12. This amount of eating, in our opinion, 
was rather too much, as it more resembled a fattening for a 
Christmas show than anything else ; but the keen sea breeze 
imparted an excellent appetite to the generality of the pas- 
sengers. Of course the greater part of our time during good 
weather was spent on deck. Here the game of quoits was a 
favourite amusement, and patronised by both ladies and 



gentlemen. Miss Kellog was conspicuous as being one of the 
best players. Card-playing in the evening, or during a rough 
day, was very general in the saloon. 

On leaving Liverpool we saw part of the Welsh coast, and 
next day (Sunday) reached Queenstown, which is 240 miles 
from Liverpool. We anchored in the Cove of Cork, as we had 
to wait for four hours the arrival of the mail from London. All 
the American steamers call here, and we took about 200 sacks 
of letters and papers on board. This was the first time we had 
seen the Emerald Isle, and on that account used all our eyes in 
the passing gHmpse we got of it. The crops along the coast 
were in process of cutting ; some of them appeared very poor. 
The crofters' huts seemed wretched. Queenstown is beautifully 
situated and appeared to great advantage, glittering in the 
sunlight. Saw the famous Spike Island ; it is small, has been 
brought to a high point of cultivation by the labour of the 
convicts, and appears well guarded and protected. A number 
of the convicts were observed taking exercise. Shortly after 
leaving Queenstown, and while we were seated at dinner, an 
alarm was raised that a seaman had fallen overboard. This of 
course caused great excitement, everyone rushing hastily upon 
deck. A life preserver was immediately thrown to the man, 
which he seized, and being a good swimmer he struck out 
manfully and was soon picked up by a boat, the Cuba's engines 
having been backed at once. The poor feUow was soon on 
board ; he looked pale, but appeared not much the worse of his 
involuntary bath. The Irish coast is generally considered a 
dangerous and stormy one, and on nearing Cape Clear the sea 
began to run high, and to break over the vessel. Some of the 
uninitiated passengers got rather disagreeable interviews with 
Neptune in the shape of a watery embrace, a repetition of 
which during the rest of the voyage they did not covet. Next 
morning the wind rather abated, but towards evening there 
were indications that a rough night awaited us, and many of the 
passengers were compelled to surrender at discretion to sea 
sickness. On Tuesday the gale increased, and heavy seas broke 
over the ship. We had remarked to one of the stewards the 
day before that there were but few of our party up to dinner 



tlien. "Yes, Sir," he replied, "but there will be fewer 
to-morrow ;" his words proved true, many being conspicuous by 
their absence. The captain, in his anxiety for the comfort of his 
lady passengers, paid a visit to their berths, and cheered them 
up, saying it was just the tail-end of a storm they had got into, 
and that the weather would soon be fine. This kind 
attention on his part did more to allay the fears of his fair 
friends than words can express. The captain's hopes were 
realised. Next morning the sea was not nearly so heavy, and 
during the remainder of our voyage we had beautiful weather. 
During the storm two little birds took refugs in the rigging of 
the ship, and were soon great favourites with all on board. 

Observations are taken every day at 12 o'clock noon, as to the 
latitude, longitude, and distance run, and these are regularly 
posted up, a scource of great interest to all on board, and one 
which helped to vary the monotony and beguile the time. It 
is wonderful how very few vessels are seen on the Atlantic, 
sometimes three or four only in a day, and occasionally none at 
all. We were often amused, with the gambols of the porpoises* 
and saw plenty of " Mother Carey's chickens," and on the coast 
of Newfoundland we noticed a considerable number of whales 
spouting. It is generally foggy off that coast, but we were 
fortunate in that respect, the weather being clear. We did, 
however, hear now and again the shrill scream of the fog 
whistle, which grated disagreeably on the ear. We had some 
glorious sunsets, and upon remarking to the captain that such 
evenings reminded me of old Scotland, he replied, " You have 
not above one of these in a year ;" and a recollection of our 
changeable northern climate compelled me to agree with him_ 
We kept a good distance to the south of Newfoundland, and 
noticed the darkened colour of the water on the banks, which 
it takes about 24 hours' steaming to clear. By this time we are 
beginning to calculate when we should arrive at New York, now 
still 1000 miles distant, and bets are beginning to be taken as 
to the No. of the pilot boat that may meet us, the complexion 
of the pilot, whether dark or fair, what foot he will first place 
on board the Cuba, right or left, and so on. We steam on, the 
wind being in our favour, and in the calm evenings, seated at 



7 



tlie stern of the vessel, I admired the phosphorescent .glow in 
our wake. On the last Sunday of our voyage a religious service 
was conducted in the saloon by the Eector of the Episcopal 
Church, New York, who was a passenger. When within about 
100 miles of New York, a small boat was descried in the 
distance ; this was soon known to be the pilot boat, having No. 
14 legibly printed on her sail ; then the excitement rose to a 
height when it was understood who the fortunate bettors had 
been. The pilot, a robust sailor-looking person, comes on board, 
shakes hands cordially with the captain, takes his place on the 
bridge, and assumes command of the vessel, the captain going 
below and not reappearing until our arrival at New York. 

The pilot had brought with him files of the New York papers, 
which were greedily bought up by the passengers, especially the 
Yankees, who were anxious to learn how election matters were 
progressing in the United States, and others, ourselves amongst 
the number, were eager to hear the latest telegrams from the 
old country, as for the last ten days we had been fairly at sea 
with regard to news from home, or any quarter of the glol^e. 
We steamed on with a fair wind, all anxious to catch the first 
glimpse of Columbia, and we thought of the days (upwards of 
four centuries ago) when the great navigator first sighted land 
on the shores of Sovith America, and of the great changes that 
have taken place since then in the speed and certainty and 
safety with which the mighty ocean is crossed. Fire Island was 
the first land visible. We steamed past Sandy Hook (about 20 
miles from New York) and anchored at Quarantine Station, as 
we were too late at night to land at Jersey City. The medical 
officer having to examine into the health of the ship's passengers 
and crew this was duly done early next morning, after which we 
steamed up past Staten Island and Long Island. The day was 
beautiful, and both these islands looked superb, studded as 
they are by gentlemen's seats, surrounded by fine orchards, 
and owned by the merchant princes of New York. On coming 
to anchor we bade farewell almost with regret to the officers and 
crew of the dear "Old Cuba" to whose kind courtesy and 
attention we had been so much indebted during the voyage. 

The ferry steamboats betwixt New York and Jersey City are 



8 



huge, ugly looking crafts, something 'like two-storey houses, 
with any quantity of paint to give them a showy and fantastic 
appearance to the eye of a stranger. They convey passengers, 
horses, carriages, waggons, &c,, all huddled together in strange 
confusion. When we landed at Jersey City there was a great 
bustle in getting our baggage examined by the Custom House 
oflGicers, who, to do them justice, were very civil, and not over 
officious in the discharge of their duties. We had to cross the 
ferry for New York, and drove to the Fifth Avenue Hotel, of 
world-wide reputation. This is one of the most extensive 
establishments of the kind in the Empire city. It is situated in 
a fine airy part of the Fifth Avenue, and commands a good view 
of New York. In the front is a park tastefully laid out with 
trees, and this is a place of great resort for the enjoyment of a 
cool morning or evening walk during the prevalence of the hot 
weather. On entering the hotel, you are ushered into a large 
hall, where you subscribe your name in a book ; then the clerk 
gives the number of your room to a waiter who is in attendance, 
and if it should happen to be in an upper part of the hotel, as 
generally is the case, you ascend in " the vertical railway." 
There are nearly 400 bedrooms. The drawing rooms are 
magnificent, and the principal dining room has accommodation 
for 500 guests ; these apartments are on the second floor. 
Connected also with this establishment are telegraph and post 
offices, also a variety of shops which furnish you with any 
article you may require. The charge for board, &c., is 5 dollars 
each per day. The American dollar is worth Ss 9d of our 
money. This hotel was, while we were staying there, the head 
quarters of the committee for promoting President Grant's 
election, and in the evening the passages and corridors were 
literally crowded with people discussing electioneering matters. 
There are a number of more private hotels in the city and 
probably more aristocratic — such as the Breevoort House, 
Hoflfman House, &c., but none is conducted in a better style 
than the Fifth Avenue Hotel. Near it we noticed a splendid 
display of flags and banners hung across the street with the 
inscriptions " For President Ulysses Grant ;" " For Vice-Presi- 
dent Henry Wilson ;" &c., &c., adorned by characteristic 



full-length likenesses of the above named gentlemen. Not far 
off in the same street was a similar display in the interests of 
Horace Greeley. 

Having refreshed the inner man after the fatigues of a ten 
days' voyage, we took a stroll through a part of the City. New 
York presents to the eye of a stranger innumerable scenes of 
novelty and interest. There is a great deal of show, but at the 
same time much substantiality about everything ; the monster 
shops, or stores, as they are called ; the crowded streets and 
thoroughfares, such as Broadway, which is three or four miles 
long ; the hotel dinners on a scale of extraordinary vastness — 
all are apt to make a strong impression on one who sees them 
for the first time. Our first dinner at the table d'hote of the 
hotel was a scene in itself. The time extends from half-past 
five to half-past seven. The American ladies are showily 
dressed but not particularly lady-like in their appearance. You 
can easily tell them by their talk and superabundance of " dress- 
improver." Both ladies and gentlemen are in general very 
loquacious. 

A great point of attraction in New York is the Central Park. 
This is the Hyde Park of New York, and it is amazing to see 
the immense number of vehicles of every description, from the 
handsome carriage and pair down to the donkey or mule 
turnout. Negroes appear to be much in request as coachmen. 
Most of the equipages have thus a motley appearance, and they 
certainly form a striking contrast to the splendid displays of the 
English aristocracy in Hyde Park. The Central Park is large 
and tastefully laid out with trees, plants, and artificial ponds, 
and is really worthy of the City. It has cost an enormous 
amount of money, as it literally has been made out of rock and 
very bad land. In the park is a zoological collection. Amongst 
the wild animals is an ugly brute of a sea lion, brought there by 
Barnum, the famous American showman. The park is still 
being enlarged, and commands a fine view of the city, and is a 
favourite resort of the citizens. We paid a visit also to Green- 
wood Cemetery, situated a few miles from Brooklyn, on the 
opposite side of the river, and which is well worth seeing. The 
grounds are tastefully laid out, and the monuments and tomb- 



10 



stones are very chaste in their design — many of them being of 
pure marble. The cemetery is intersected by beautiful drives. 
While there we saw several funerals. The hearse is covered with 
glass on the sides and the cofi&n is thus exposed to view. The 
drivers of the hearse and mourning coaches do not seem very 
particular as to their dress — few being attired in black. Broad- 
way and Wall Street appear to be the business part of New 
York, the latter being the Lombard Street of the City., The 
streets here are so crowded with vehicles of every description 
that pedestrians, and especially females, have the iitmost. 
difficulty in crossing, and often require the aid of a policeman. 

We were told by an eminent banker, that when his grandfather 
came over to America (by-the-by he belonged to Dumfries) he 
intended to settle in New York, but at that time it was such a 
paltry place that he would not remain in it, and settled at 
Pittsburg in Pennsylvania. Now, the Empire city has a popula- 
tion of nearly a million, and if Brooklyn and Jersey City are 
included, will amovmt to 1,400,000 souls. New York and Jersey 
City have extensive docks, being, next to Liverpool and London, 
the greatest shipping port in the world. Conspicuous amongst 
the wharfs are those belonging to the " Cunard," " Inman," 
" National," " White Star," and " Guion " Steam Packet 
Companies. New York can boast of large establishments of 
every kind. TJie store of Mr Stewart in Broadway is of immense 
extent, the second largest of the kind we believe in the world— 
an establishment in Paris being the fii'st. Every article one can 
think of is sold here. The building consists of many storeys, 
and of course " elevators " are required to enable customers to 
reach all the diflferent departments. The number of hands 
employed is very large. A very fine new post office is in the 
course of erection in Broadway, which, when finished, will prove 
a great ornament to the City. The Fifth Avenue is a magnifi- 
cent street running parallel to Broadway, but is quieter and 
more aristocratic, as it contains many private residences of the 
merchants, &:c., of New York, as well as handsome hotels. 
During our stay we had an opportunity of seeing a monster 
mass meeting at night in the interest of Horace Greeley, There 
was an immense number of peoi)le present, all very good 



11 



humoured, listening to addresses by various speakers in different 
parts of the square in which the gathering was held. The 
Yankees are very demonstrative on these occasions, and the 
speakers are generally gifted with powerful and stentorian lungs. 
After the harangues, rockets were sent up in great profusion, 
the whole sky being illuminated, and the effect was magnificent 
in the extreme. One thing we particularly noticed in the streets 
oi New York — the absence of military, forming a strikinpj 
contrast to what we had seen last year in Paris after the reign of 
the Commune. One evening we went to hear a party of 
minstrels and were much pleased. They were, however, only 
imitation negroes, but a fund of humour rarely to be met with 
ran through the whole entertainment, and they were muph 
applauded by an intelligent audience. Amongst some tunes on 
the violin, played by them with much f eeHng, was " The Banks 
and Braes o' Bonnie Doon," which, at such a distance from 
home, we listened to with heartfelt interest and emotion. 
Although New York has splendid edifices of various kinds, none 
of them can boast of any antiquity. They cannot point to a Saint 
Paul's or a Westminister Abbey, but they talk with pride of 
their immense commercial untertakiugs, their enterprise, and 
their " go-a-head " character in every thing they give their 
attention to, forgetting, or seeming to forget, that the transac- 
tions in the Stock Exchange and Wall Street are occasionally of 
a questionable nature. 

The City is supplied with water from the Croton Aqueduct, the 
reservoir of which is on York Hill, about 5 miles from the City. 
The supply is abundant and comes from Croton Lake, 40 miles 
distant from New York. The original cost of this magnificent 
work is said to be over 13 millions of dollars. The handsome 
offices of the Herald, the Tribune, the Times, &c., and the 
extensive book establishment of Appleton's, &c., will possess 
much interest for the stranger. The high bridge constructed for 
the passage of the Croton Aqueduct over the Haarlem River 
from Winchester county to the Island of New York, is a 
noble work. Staten Island is a place much resorted to by 
the New Yorkers, and nothing is more enjoyable than a 
sail down the bay to the villages and landings on that Island, 



12 



or the superb views over land and sea which its high ground 
commands. 

After a few days' stay in New York we started in company 
with some friends per the Hudson River Railway for Albany. 
"We had intended to have gone up the Hudson by steamboat, 
but it takes a much longer time, and as the railway skirts the 
river all the way, we saw nearly quite as well as by water the 
fine scenery which the Hudson commands. We were much 
struck by the diflference in the construction of the American 
railway carriages, or cars, as they are termed in the West. They 
are of immense proportions. The cars are generally about 60 
or 70 feet in length, with a passage down the centre of each ; 
they are attached to each other so that a passenger can walk 
from end to end the whole length of the train. This appears a 
great convenience. The cars are in general comfortably seated, 
but the class of passengers is a very mixed one. Here and there 
you see the negro seated alongside the white. Of course there 
are any quantity of spittoons in the carriages. There is only 
(nominally speaking) one class of carriage, as our Yankee friends 
like equality. Still this is really only in name, for if you wish 
a finer car you can get one of Pulman's drawing room and 
sleeping cars by paying a little extra. These are provided by a 
different company, the railway having nothing to do with them. 
They are elegantly fitted up, are high in the roof, airy and 
pleasant, and beautifully and tastefully painted. They contain 
every convenience, lavatories, &c. The average expense of 
travelling in America will be about the same as our first-class — 
viz., 2d per mile ; but this varies according to distance. The 
baggage department is well conducted, and is an improvement 
on our system. Before entering the train, you get checks for 
all your different packages, and on your arrival at your destina- 
tion on presenting these to the officials you find your impedi- 
menta all right, and this without any trouble or anxiety on your 
part. 

We leave New York on a lovely, clear autumnal morning, but 
it is some time before we clear the outskirts of the vast city, in 
part of which there are vei'y poor miserable-looking wooden 
houses or huts — inhabited we suppose by Irish Americans, as 



IS 



numbers of pigs are snorting about before the doors. At length 
the Hudson river appears in all its glory — ^truly a refreshing 
sight after the heat and dust of the crowded city. We may 
here mention that the steamers plying on the river are like 
floating palaces, being beautifully fitted up. We would prefer 
for safety, however, a " Cunard Atlantic steamer," as occasion- 
ally you hear of a blow-up or something of the sort in the 
American river boats. Only the day after we railed up the 
Hudson one of the magnificent boats took fire, and the passen- 
gers with difficulty escaped. The scenery of the Hudson river 
has been so often described, not only for its beauty, but because 
on its banks were fought many of the battles in the American 
War of Independence, that we will merely give a passing sketch. 
For the first 12 miles or so we skirt along the Island of Man- 
hattan on which New York is built. One of the objects of 
interest we pass is the New York Orphan Asylum, where nearly 
200 children of both sexes are clothed, fed, and taught. Above 
Manhattanville, a small village, Audubon, the celebrated natural- 
ist, lies buried in the Trinity Cemetery. We see in the distance 
Tarrytown, where the unfortunate Major Andre was hanged as 
a spy, after having been made acquainted with the plan by 
which West Point could be seized by the British troops. His 
body, after being interred near the scene of his sad fate for 
forty years, was given over to his countrymen, and now reposes 
amongst the brave departed in Westminster Abbey. Near 
Tarrytown and Irvington lies the charming and romantic cottage 
called Sunnyside, the home of the renowned Washington Irving. 
We next come to Sing Sing, where the State Prison of New York 
is. It is built near the river. The prison can accommodate 
above a thousand persons. Opposite Sing Sing is the Eockland 
Lake Ice Company depot, where a large number of hands are 
employed every winter to cut and store ice for the summer's 
consumption in New York. The Croton Lake, which supplies 
the city with water, is also near this. The Lake is estimated to 
contain six hundred million gallons of water, and (daily) fifty to 
sixty million gallons are taken from it to supply New York with 
this necessary of life. We now reach West Point, one of the 
most lovely spots on the river. There is a great military academy 



14 



Bituated here, which occupies a noble plateau, about a mile in 
circuit,, and 180 feet above the river. Beautiful hills, covered 
with wood, and romantic ruins embellish the landscape. This 
was the great key of the river in the time of the revolution, 
which General Arnold, then in command of the post, would have 
betrayed into the possession of the British, but was prevented 
by Major Andre's arrest at Tan'ytown. General Arnold escaped 
to a British vessel, the Vulture, lying close at hand in the river. 
Farther on we pass Pough-Keepsie, 75 miles from New York, 
an^d half way to Albany ; it is the largest place betwixt the two 
cities, and contains 15,000 inhabitants. Here the train stops to 
allow passengers to dine. It is in a rich agricultural district, 
and has a variety of manufactures. We now come to the city of 
Hudson, a large business place, and the head of ship navigation 
in the river. From Prospect Hill, near the town, a fine view of 
the Catskill mountains and of the winding river is obtained. 
After 146 miles by rail we arrive at Albany, the capital of New 
York State, with a population of about 60,000, In 1623 it was 
founded by the Dutch. There is nothing particular to be seen ; 
it lies upon the Hudson, which you cross by a metal suspension 
bridge. We stayed here a few hours longer than we intended, 
owing to the blundering of one of the railway officials at the 
station, who did not appear to know anything about the train 
for Saratoga, where we were going that evening. Sometimes he 
had it that we would find the train on this side the rails, some- 
times on the other, until we were fairly thr@^vn into confusion 
worse confounded : so we missed the first train. The official, 
with a real Yankee air, could give no explanation but that he 
guesed the train was gone ! This was our first misadventure ; but 
we took better care in the future, and depended more upon 
ourselves. On our way to Saratoga, we spent a few hours at 
Troy. This is rather an important place, with about 45,000 
inhabitants. It stands upon both banks of the Hudson, and 
there is a fine view of the country from the suiTounding heights. 
It was late at night before we reached Saratoga, the famous 
watering place — the Leamington or Harrowgate of America. We 
went to the Congress Hall Hotel — a large and commodious 
building. On being ushered into the dining or supper hall — a 



15 



splendid apartment — we were rather astonished at the sight of 
so many negro waiters, all tastefully dressed in white jackets, 
the weather being warm. Some of these blacks have very 
expressive and intelligent countenances, and they are generally 
very civil and obliging. Although they are now free, one could 
not help recalling the beautiful lines of Cowper, happily no 
longer applicable — 

"Men from England bought and sold me. 
Paid my price in paltry gold ; 
But though their's they have enthralled me, 
Minds are never to be sold." 

The resident population of Saratoga is about 5000, but during 
the summer and autumn months it is vastly increased by the 
influx of strangers, who come for the benefit of the springs and 
to enjoy the pure and invigorating air. The springs or 
spas are too numerous to mention, and they have all 
different properties. Hosts of Americans visit this — some for 
the sake of their health, some for amusement, young ladies 
and gentlemen to find matches, widows to entrap and captivate 
gentlemen past the meridian of life but with well-filled purses, 
as money has its attractions in the West as well as at home. 
The best season for Saratoga is the months of June, July, and 
August ; by the end of September visitors begin to leave, and 
in October the principal hotels are shut up. Amongst the 
hotels, the Grand Union is conspicuous from its immense size 
and proportions, and we give it as a sample. It is a splendid 
brick structure with a street frontage of about 1300 feet. The 
offices, parlours, dining-room, and ball-room, are unequalled for 
size, graceful architecture, and beauty of design and finish. The 
former has a lavish display of white and coloured marbles, while 
a series of colonades rise from the centre to the dome. 
Within the capacious grounds — which extend to seven acres 
— are several elegant and unique cottages, which are much 
sought after by fashionables. A vertical railway renders the 
six stories easy of access. Some idea of the monster size of this 
establishment may be formed from the following statistics: — 
Length of piazzas, one mile ; halls, two miles ; carpeting io 
hotel, twelve acres ; marble tiling, one acre ; number of room»„ 

„ ^ B 



16 



eight hundred and twenty-four ; doors, one thousand four 
hundred and seventy -four ; windows, one thousand eight 
hundred and ninety-one. The dining-room is two hundred and 
fifty feet by fifty-three feet, and twenty feet high, and will 
accommodate at one time 1200 guests. There is music on the 
lawn at 9 in the morning and half-past 3 in the afternoon, and 
balls every week, the climate of Saratoga being pleasant and salu- 
brious, protected by high lands from storm and wind. Every 
arrival is duly reported in the newspapers. It is no uncommon 
thing for the latter to notice in the usual style of " American 
slang," what j'oung lady was the helle, her dress, whose daughter 
she is, and so on. 

The American ladies here dress very showily and seem to 
consider that their outward appearance indicates the lady in the 
true sense of the term, but strangers will reserve their opinion 
upon that point and leave it an open question.. There are 
elegant shops in the town. These are in the principal street, 
which is a handsome one, with a fine row of trees before the 
doors, which adds greatly to its beauty. In the cool of the 
evening numbers are seated enjoying themselves smoking, 
talking, &c., before the numerous hotels, and the whole scene 
presents a unique appearance ; but this only lasts a few months. 
In winter the aspect will be entirely changed. There is an 
Indian Camp near the town, an object of interest to the visitor. 
The Indians are, however, a mixed breed, being partly a Canadian 
gipsy band, part low French and low Indian blood. They come 
here with an eye to business during the season, when they vend 
their trinkets. Not very far from Saratoga is the battle field 
where the British General Burgoyne was forced to surrender to 
General Gates of the revolutionary army in 1777. Saratoga 
Lake, a few miles from the village, is a place also of much resort. 
It is nine miles long by two and a half broad. It is romantically 
situated. A small steamer plies upon it for the benefit of the 
tourist. There is a tradition connected with this lake which we 
will quote from N. P. Willis : — " There is," he says, " an 
Indian superstition attached to the lake, which probably has its 
source in its remarkable loneliness and tranquillity. The 
Mohawks believed that its stillness was sacred to the Great 



17 



Spirit, and that if a human voice uttered a sound upon its 
waters, the canoe of the offender would instantly sink. A story 
is told of an English woman in the early days of the first settlers, 
who had occasion to cross the lake with a party of Indians, who, 
before embarking, warned her most impressively of the spell. 
It was a silent, breathless day, aiid the canoe shot over the 
smooth surface of the lake like an arrow. About a mile from 
the shore, near the centre of the lake, the woman, willing to 
convince the savages of the weakness of their superstition, utter- 
ed a loud cry. The countenances of the Indians fell instantly 
to the deepest gloom. After a moment's pause, however, they 
redoubled their exertions, and in frowning silence impelled 
the light bark like an arrow over the waters. They reached 
the shore in safety and drew up the canoe, and the woman 
rallied the chief on his credulity. ' The Great Spirit is merciful,' 
answered the Mohawk, * He knows that a white woman cannot 
hold her tongue,' " There are beautiful and lovely walks 
around Saratoga. We stayed here over a Sunday and took 
the oppoi'tunity of hearing a Presbyterian minister preach. The 
clergy in America are not clerical in their dress, the one alluded 
to appearing in the pulpit with a black tie. However, he gave 
a, good practical discourse, and the congregation seemed most 
respectable, well dressed, and devout hooking. There are a good 
many churches of various denominations here as in Yankee land. 
The number of particular sects is legion. We may here mention 
that the negroes of a Sunday come out in gay attire, particularly 
the negresses, who appear in all manner of hues, and who shov/ 
no small amount of conceit and vanity as to their personal 
Appearance. While standing at the hotel door on the Sunday 
we observed an elegant carriage and pair containing two swell 
looking negroes, with showy " kids," reclining with much ease 
and soMfj froul, driven by a white coachman, with attendants. 
Thinking that the occupants of the carriage were gentlemen of 
the first water, we inquired of an ofi&cial connected with the 
hotel who these black gentlemen were, as we nati'-rally sup osed 
they were of note. " Oh," he replied, " these are two negro 
zcaiters from an hotel, taking their usual Sunday drive." What 
would we think of such style in this country ? We were just 



18 



too late for seeing American life to perfection, as the visitors 
were rapidly leaving. However we were much pleased with 
what we saw of this favourite watering place and the romantic 
scenery all around. Saratoga is of easy access by railway ; it is 
186 miles from New York, a journey of only five hours and a 
half, and is distant from Boston 230, Washington 412, and 
Chicago 841 miles. 



Chapter II. 

LAKES GEORGE AND CHAMPLAIN— MONTREAL. 

We left this beautiful watering place with regret, en route for 
Montreal by Lake George and Lake Champlain. The morning 
was wet and unpleasant. On our way, per railway, to Glen Falls, 
we passed along the Hudson river for a considex-able distance, 
where we saw an immense quantity of timber rafts, on which 
were huts for the woodmen, floating down the river for ship- 
ment to various parts of the globe. On reaching Glen Falls 
several coaches or diligences, with four horses each, were waiting 
to take the jDassengers on to Lake George, about nine miles dis* 
tant. These conveyances are huge lumbering vehicles, covered 
on the top and open at the sides. They carry any quantity of 
passengers and luggage, and one is literally squeezed into them, 
as the Yankees do not allow any spare room, if possible. The 
roads were dreadfully bad, just resembling a quagmire the whole 
way, and many parts were laid with wooden planks. The jolting 
was something awful, as every now and then one was in the 
greatest danger of being either thrown bodily out into the road 
(which fortunately was soft) or getting one's cranium dashed 
against the roof of the coach, and one might thank his stars if 
he escaped with whole bones. We daresay our readers will 
think us rather Yankeefying when we tell them that the pleasant 
and agreeable sensation of a drive like this, in the shape of sore 
bones and muscles, is not soon or easily efifaced. The springs of 
these machines are made of the best material, and the woodwork 
of hiccory, otherwise they could not stand such roads. During 
the journey, however, we admired much the picturesque scenery, 



19 



and observed many fields of maize or Indian corn. This grain 
was not equal in strength to what we aftt^rwards saw turther 
west. Within a few miles of Lake George we pass a dark, dreai-\ - 
looking glen, in which is a pool called the Bloody Pond. Near 
to this Col. "Williams was killed in an engagement with thi.' 
French and Indians in 1755, and it takes its name from the fact 
that the slain were thrown into it. The view on apju-oaehing 
the Fort William Henry Hotel is superb ; below you lies the 
lovely lake, and on a fine clear day the effect must be striking. 
Unfortunately it still rained, so we- did not see it to the best ad- 
vantage. After a tedious ride of two and a half hours we reach- 
ed the hotel — a commodious and elegant building connnanding 
a glorious view of the lake. The day, fortunately, cleared up, 
iind we embraced the opportunity of taking a sail in the little 
steamer which plies round the lake. This we enjoyed very much. 
Lake George ma}' be termed the Loch Lomond of America, and 
is one of the most admired and I'umantic in the United State.-. 
It is surroundctl by softly undulating hills covei-ed with woods, 
the ditl'erent tints of whose autumnal foliage liad a line effect. 
There are numerous fairy-like i.sUnds on the lake, studded here 
and there with tastefully laid out villas belonging chiefly to the 
merchant princes of New York who resort there during the sum- 
mer month>-. The value of these small islands has vastly increas- 
ed from this cause : as an example, the captain of the steamer 
told us that one of them had been sold fifteen years ago for 70 
<lollars ; now the proprietor has refused the fabulous sum of 
10,000 dollars for it. The woods abound with game, and the 
<leadly rattlesnake may be mentioned among the reptiles, but it 
seldom does much harm, as it gives timeous warning of its ap- 
proach. There are a number of settlers round the lake, who have 
small farms, ^\■ith neat wooden tenements, This district is 
peopled chiefly by German and Scotch settlers. 

Lake George is 36 miles long, and has been the scene of many 
stirring events in connection with the wars between the French 
and British upwards of a century ago. We returned to the 
hotel in the evening, and early next morning left by the steamer 
Ma/itchaha, which was a much larger boat than the one we had 
been in the day before : it was beautifully fitted up, and very 



,20 



comfortable. This steamer plies between the Fort William 
Heury Hotel and the village of Ticonderago, near to Lake 
Champlaiu. 

It was a beautiful day, and during our passage we had the 
pleasure of seeing an immense eagle sailing thi ough " the azure 
deeps of air." A gentleman on board stated from its appear- 
ance that it would measure seven feet from tip to tip ; we saw 
another a short time afterwards ; also a specimen of that raven- 
ous bird tlie vulture. In many places precipitous rocks of large 
proportions rise from the lake, the reflection of which on the 
smooth placid waters of the lake has a magnificent effect. Ou 
our landing there were, as usual, the familiar lumbering coaches 
in waiting. We had four miles to drive to a point on Lake Cham- 
plain, near the old historic fort of Ticonderago. If the roads 
v/ere bad before, this one was even v»'orse, and we suffered in a 
still greater degree the shakings of the previous day, but no 
limbs were broken. We pitied the poor horses which had to 
draw lis up the steep ascents with about a foot depth of mud. 
Some of the passengers walked at these places, but when they 
came to take their seats again they were in a deplorable plight 
with dirt and mud. We took upwards of an hour and a half to 
accomplish this tedious journej", and were glad to get refreshed 
at a small but comfortable hostelrie near the old fort of Ticon- 
derago. This is now in ruins, but if walls could speak they could 
recount many deeds of war in times gone by. The fort was 
erected by the French in 1756. It has been originally a place of 
great strength, with many natuial advantages, having water on 
three sides. It was taken from the French by General Eurgoyne. 
This fort was one of the first strongholds captured by the Revo, 
lutionary army in 1775 at the commencement of the war. 

We started fiom this by the steamer United States, v/hicli 
plies on Lake Champlain, for Rouses Point. This lake is about 
100 miles long, with a width varying from 2 to 10 miles. It is 
noted for being the scene of important military operations dur- 
ing the War of Independence, as also of a naval engagement be- 
tween the Americans and British in 1814. Lake Champlain is 
very narrow at the lower part, but grows much wider at Ticon- 
derago. Mount Independence in the State of Vermont lies oppo- 



21 



site the old fort. Mount Hope is a mile north of TiconderoRo, 
and was occupied by General Burgoyne previous to the recapture 
of that stronghold in 1777, when St. Clair the American com- 
mander was compelled to evacuate it. It again fell into the 
hands of the British, and was held by them during the war. 

Burlington in the State of Vermont, on the eastern slioie of the 
lake, couttiining about 8000 inhabitants, is a place of consider- 
able commercial importance, and conspicuous among New Eng- 
land cities (they are all " cities " in America) for its beaut}-, ele- 
gant buildings, and general prosperity : it is also the seat of the 
University of Vermont, and is connected by nulway with all 
parts of the country. The scene as we approach in the steamer 
is very lovely ; the outline of the Green Mountains is seen be- 
yond the city, and viewing it as a whole there is such a combin- 
ation of the beauties of laud and water as is seldom met with. 
The steamboat here enters upon the widest jiortion of the lake, 
and to the stranger a splendid and gorgeous view is at once un- 
folded : on the we«t Lion Mountain and the various groups of 
the Andirondacks are seen in b(>ld relief, and have an im])osing 
appearance. Lake Champlain, although much larger, is not 
equal in scenery or natural attractions to its lesser rival. Lake 
George ; still it possesses much interest to the traveller, associ- 
ated as it is with historic events. As the weather was beautiful 
we spent with much satisfaction and delight eight hours on its 
waters. Before we reached Bouses Point the shades of evening 
were closing round us ; and in the lovely clear sky the full moon 
was rising in all its glory, and its reflection on the smooth blue 
surface of the lake was grand in the extreme. Although seen 
across the wide Atlantic one could not help recognising as it were 
the face of an old friend. We landed at Bouses Point on the 
confines of Canada. Our baggage was examined by the Custom 
House officers, but this did not occupy much time. AVe were 
thankful once more to set foot in the dominions of our good 
Queen Victoria. We may state that the steamer United States 
was elegantly and comfortably fitted up \\ith sleeping berths, 
&c., and the refreshment department was all that could be de- 
sired, as passengers had every comfort on board this vessel. 

We then took the cars on the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada 



22 



for ^lontreal, a distance of about 40 miles. As it was clear moon- 
light we saw the outlines of the country, but it did not appear 
to much advantage : the same everlasting lumber fences we had 
been accustomed to in the States still met our eye. The rattling 
din of the train was not very agreeable after the smooth waters 
of Lake Champlaiu, over which we had so lately gilded. It was 
eleven o'clock p.m. before we reached IMoutreal, after a very lung 
da^'s journey of IG hours' duration. Before entering the station 
we crossed the elegant suspension bi'idge over the St. Lawrence 
■ — in length one mile and seven-eights. It being night we could 
not at that time get a proper view of this wonderful triumph of 
engineering skill. We went to the St, Lawrence Hall Hotel — 
an old-fashioned building situated near the centre of the city. 

Montreal, the largest and most populous city and the com- 
mercial metropolis of British North America, is beautifully 
.situated upon the south shoi-e of an island, and at the base of 
Mount Royal, from which both the city and the island take their 
name. Its population is about 150,000, The island on which 
Montreal stands is nearly 30 miles long and 10 broad, and is 
formed by the river Ottav/a running into St, Lawrence at its 
western and eastern extremities, the form^^r near St. Ann's, the 
latter at Bout de I'lsles, This island is famed for its fertile soil. ■ 
The city was founded in 1G42 upon its present site, and for long 
bore the name of Ville Marie. Of its original history there is 
little to mention beyond this, that the early Fi-ench settlers 
were constantly annoyed by the Iriquois Indians. It was first 
exi)lored by Jacques Cartier in 1535, In 1758 it only cont dned 
4000 souls, and even so late as 1S09 we were told by a venerable 
citizen of Montreal, who came there at that date from Scotland, 
that the population was only 15,000 : taking those figures into 
account, the increase has been something astounding of late 
years. This gentleman also informed us that only two or three 
vessels came to ^Montreal for Avood and grain twice a year from 
Scotland. 

In former years no ship above 300 tons burthen could 
approach Montreal, and its foreign trade was carried on by 
small craft. The first steam vessel made a trip to Quebec 
(distant down the St. Lawrence 200 miles) in 1809. Now the 



23 



aspect of things is most wonderful. Ocean steamers of great 
power, 3000 tons burthen, may be seen in the docks ; these 
include the magnificent fleet of steamers plying across the 
Atlantic from Montreal and Quebec to Glasgow, owned by the 
world-reiiowned firm of Sir Hugh Allan & Co., who are the 
Cunards of the St. Lawrence. The Allans are notable examples 
of what industry, indomitable perseverance, and business habits 
can accomplish i1 properly applied. This firm is deservedly 
respected in Montreal both for its munificence and sterling 
worth. Sir Hugh, the head of the house, has a very handsome 
residence near the " Mountain," overlooking the city and river. 
Montreal has evidently been laid out on the old French plan of 
narrow streets, and was divided, as it still is, into an upper and 
lower town. According to an old chronicle, iu the lower town 
the merchants and men of business chiefly resided, and here also 
were the place of arms, the royal magazines, and the nunnery 
hospital. The principal buildings were in ihe upper town, such 
as the palace of the governor, the houses of the chief officers, 
the convent of the Recollets, the Jesuits' church and seminary, 
the free school, and parish church. The houses were solidly 
constructed in that semi-monastic style peculiar to Rouen, Caen, 
and other towns in Normandy ; some of the buildings of that 
period are still standing. Montreal was for long the head-quarters 
of the French forces in Canada. In 1763 it was surrendered to 
the English, and at that time it was a city of oblong form, sur- 
rounded by a wall flanked with eleven redoubts, a ditch eight 
feet deep, and of a pi'oportiouate width, but dry, and a fort and 
citadel. 

Through the kindness of a clerical friend we had various 
introductory letters to persons in Monti-eal, — amongst the num- 
ber the Rev. Mr Black, of the Scottish Churcti, who showed us 
the utmost kindness and attention. Through his good offices 
we were privileged to see many objects of interest in and near 
the city. The Victoria Bridge (mentioned before in passing) is 
cue of the most wonderful sights that can attract the eye 
of the stranger, and for the benefit of our engineering readers 
we copy a minute description of it. " The bridge proper 
rests upon 24 piers ; these are all at a distance of 242 



24 



feet, with the exception of the two centre piers, which are 330 
feet apart ; upon these rest the centre tube, which is 60 feet 
above the summer level of St. Lawrence. At the centre of the 
bridge one has a magnificent view of the noble river. . The 
bridge is apj)roached b}'' two massive embankments — the one on 
the Montreal side 'being 1200 feet, and that on the south shore 
800 feet in length, which, together, including abutments, make 
the total length of the bridge about a mile and three-quarters. 
The abutments, are each, at the base, 278 feet long, and are 
built hollow, having eight openings, or cells, 48 feet in length, 
and 24: feet in width, separated by cross walls 5 feet thick. The 
flank wall on the down stream side rises nearly perpendicular, 
and is 7 feet in thickness ; that on the up stream has a slope 
from its foundation upwards ; the thickness of the walls is 12 
feet, and they present a smooth surface to facilitate the move- 
ment of the ice, on which account its form had thus been deter- 
mined. To insure greater resistance to the pressure of the ice, 
the cells are filled up with earth, stones, and gravel, so that one 
solid mass was thus obtained. The embankments are solid, 
composed of stone 36 feet above the summer water level, and of 
the width of 30 feet on the upper surface, formed with a slope 
of 1 to 1 on the down side of the stream, and a hollow shelving 
slope of about 2^ to 1 on the upper side. The slopes are faced 
with stones set on edge at an average angle of 45°. The piers • 
are solid, and constructed, as well as the abutments, of the finest 
description of ashlar masonry, laid in horizontal courses measur- 
ing from 7 to 12 feet on the bed, and from 3 feet 10 inches to 2 
feet 6 inches thick above the water level, and thence varying 
with a course of 18 inches under the plates. The stones were 
cut with the greatest exactness, seldom requiring to be re-dressed 
after being laid. They weigh from 7 to 17 tons ; the average 
weight of each stone is 10^ tons. All the bed^ and vertical joints 
are square ; the external face rough, and without any pick or 
tool marks, but with the natural quarry face preserved. The 
stone used is a limestone of the Lower Silurian order. The 
average height of the piers above the summer water level is 48 
feet, gradually rising from a height of 36 feet at the abutments 
to 60 feet at the centre pier, giving a grade of 1 to 132, or 40 



25 



feet to the mile. The centre span is level. Each pier is fur- 
nished with a solid cut-water, or ice breaker, which forms a 
portion of the pier itself. They are of a wedge form, and slope 
from their foundations upwards, terminating in an angle 30 feet 
above the summer level of the river. The foundations, of 
course, vary ; some are as low down as 20 feet below the water. 
The whole of the ashlar is. laid in hydraulic cement, in the 
proportion of one part sand to one part cement. The backing 
from the level of the surface upwards is in common mortar. The 
piers are calculated to resist a pressure of seventy thousand tons." 
There is an immense traffic over the bridge from the West to 
the United States — Boston, Portland, &c. It is more than 
commensurate with the enormous cost of the bridge — nearly 
seven million dollars. It gives to Montreal an unbroken railway 
communication, the value of which cannot be over-estimated. 

Amongst the churches the Episcopal English Cathedral stands 
pre-eminent, and, as I have been informed, is by far the most 
perfect specimen of Gothic architecture in America. There are 
many other churches — Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Wesley 
and Methodist — vieing with each other in lofty spires. Con- 
spicuous among them is St. Andrew's Scottish Presbyterian 
Church, a beautiful building, and of chaste design. The Rev. 
Andrew Paton of Penpont was for several years the respected 
pastor of this church, and much regret was felt by his attached 
congregation on losing his invaluable services. The new church 
of the Jesuits is an imposing edifice. Among the banking 
establishments in the city, the head office of the Bank of Mon- 
treal is one of the handsomest. The post office is an old build- 
ing, and now too small for the large biisiness carried on ; a new 
one, however, is talked of. None of the hotels are first-rate, 
being old-fashioned, but a large new one is spoken of as being 
requisite for such an important city. Fine carriage-drives 
abound in and around the town ; that round the " mountain," 
as it is termed, (in our own country it would be called a hill,) is 
a very fine one, commanding a splendid view of Montreal, the 
glorious river St. Lawrence, and a great extent of country. 
Montreal, being originally French, has still much the style of 
that gay country about it. In every street you will observe a 



26 



curious mixture of English and French names on the places of 
business. The lumber trade is largely carried on, and grain 
exported to every quarter of the globe ; consequently the docks 
present a very stirring and animated appearance. The trade in 
furs is also carried on to a considerable extent. There are a 
number of villas with tastefully laid out grounds near the city^ 
and orchards blushing with the richest fruit. We had the 
pleasure of paying a visit to a lady's house and farm about sis 
miles from the city, nearly opposite the Lachine rapids of the St. 
Lawrence, where we were much impressed by the magnificent 
appearance and extent of an orchard of fruit trees (mostly apples), 
in process of being gathered in, and which gave us a new idea of 
the wealth of Pomona. 

The land is of a rich loamy character. Wheat is grown to a 
considerable extent. Dairies are also common, but the farming 
in Lower Canada is not equal to that in Upper Canada. Vege- 
tation is very rapid ; the heat last summer was most oppresive, 
the season being one of the warmest experienced for long. 
Winter generally begins about St. Andrew's Day (30th Nov.), 
and the inhabitants can calculate to a few days when the frost 
and snow will set in. When winter fairly commences the time 
is very agreeably passed in sledging, skating, &c., and our own 
national game of curling is well patronised, especially by 
Scotsmen. 

Every stranger who visits Montreal should descend the Lachine 
rapids of the St. Lawrence, nine miles above the city. We left at 
seven o'clock in the morning, took the cars to Lachine, and 
waited the arrival of the steamer that runs the rapids. The 
day, unfortunately, was wet and unpleasant. After sailing a few 
miles down the river you approach the rapids, which are visible 
at a considerable distance, owing to the disturbed and tumul- 
tuous appearance of the water. A feeling of awe comes over one 
when the tiny boat approaches the surging and heaving torrent ; 
she gallantly dashes through the foaming and roaring waters at 
inconceivable speed ; the angle being about 25 degrees, and is 
soon in smooth water, when each passenger breaths more freely on 
the accomplishment of this daring feat ; one false turn of the helm 
and our little steamer would have been dashed into a thousand 



27 

:pieces against the rocks which encircle the narrow navigable 
channel of the river. Until of late years the only supposed 
competent pilot was an Indian, but now other qualified seamen 
also take the helm. We would strongly advise nervous persons 
not to attempt this voyage, as it requires one's courage to be 
screwed up to the foolhardy pitch. 

After running the rapids we arrived at Montreal about 10 a.m. 
in time for breakfast, the early excursion having exercised a 
healthy influence on the appetite. The time occupied in this 
trip was only three hours or so. Of course the steamer do€S 
not return up the rapids : that is an impossibility, and she 
returns through a canal. During our stay, when accompanying 
our friends, Messrs C. of N., to the Wharf, on their way to 
Quebec, an opportunity was afforded us of inspecting one of 
the magnificent steam-boats that ply between Montreal and 
Quebec. They are superbly fitted up, and are well worth visit- 
ing, everything connected with them being of the best and 
most gorgeous description, surpassing anything of the kind we 
have yet seen in America. The sail down the St. Lawrence i.=! 
said to be a glorious ©ne. We were sorry that time did not 
permit us to visit the old Citadel and City of Quebec immortal- 
ized in history for the gallant deeds of the heroic AV^olfe, who, 
in the hour of victor}^, fell gloriously on the plains of Abraham 
in 1759 when Quebec was taken from the French under his 
br'ave rival, ]\[ontcalm, who also shared the same fate. 

Montreal is supplied with water taken from the St. Lawrence 
at a point about one mile and a half above the Lachine rapids 
where the elevation of the river surface is about 37 feet above 
the harbour of Montreal. Thje wheel-house at the termination 
of the aqueduct is worthy of notice. The water is admitted to, 
and discharged from this building through submerged archways 
vindei covered frost-proof passages, extending above and below 
the building. The reservoirs which are situated on the side of 
the " Mountain " are excavated out of the solid rock, and have 
a water surface of over 90,000 square feet, with a depth of 25 
feet. The two contain about fifteen million gallons. The total 
■«ost of their erection w^as nearly 1,800,000 dollars. 

When out a drive one day we were caught in a severe 
c 



28 

thunderstorm, being the first we had experienced in America. 
The lightning was remarkably vivid, the thunder rolled, and 
the rain fell in torrents, so much so that our driver had to take 
shelter for himself and horse, whilst we took refuge in a small 
restaurant by the way-side. The storm was of short duration, 
and the sun soon shone forth in all his glory, so as to enable 
us to continue our excursion into the countr}^ The effects of 
a storm like chis pass away quickly here, the atmosphere 
Ijjping of a drier nature than in our own moist climate. The 
land is very rich and capable of producing various kinds of 
crops, wheat, Indian corn, potatoes, &c. 

St. Ann's, near Montreal, is a favourite resort of families 
during the summer months, affording as it does charming oppor- 
tunities for fishing, aquatics, &o. There is a canal here to 
avoid the small rapids which run to the right under the bridge 
belonging to the Grand Trunk Railway. This bridge is on a 
much smaller scale than the Victoria bridge at Montreal ; still 
it is an elegant structure and must not be overlooked. St. 
Ann's has been made famous by the poet Moore in his stirring 
Canadian boat song, which is supposed to have been written in 
this romantic and pretty village. 

*' Faintly as tolls the evening chime, 

Our voices keep tune and our oars keep time. 
Soon as the woods on shore look dim, 
We'll sing at St. Ann's our parting hymn. 

Row, brothers, roAv, the stream runs fast, 
The rapids are near and the daylight's past. 

" Why should we yet our sail unfurl ? 

There is not a breath the blue wave to curl ; 

But when the wind blows from off the shore, 

Oh ! sweetly we'll rest our weary oar. 

Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast, 
The rapids are near and the dayhght's past. 

" Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon, 
Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon ; 
Saint of this green isle, hear our prayers, 
Oh ! grant us cool heavens, and favoring airs. 

Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast, 
The rapids are near and the dajdight's past." 



29 



Chapter III. 

OTTAWA — TORONTO — NIAGARA FALLS. 

After spending a few pleasant days at Montreal we left early 
in tlie morning for Ottawa. We had our choice either to go by 
railway, the quickest route being about 130 miles, or by 
steamer from the railway terminus at Lachine, and sailing up 
the river. We chose the latter course, and on arriving at 
Lachine per railway went on board the Prince of Wales^ steam 
packet. The Ottawa is a splendid river, and its scenery is 
beautiful and romantic. As far as the eye can reach immense 
forests stretch before you, clothed in their autumnal foliage. 
Near the shore the land is partially cultivated. The day 
was clear and bracing, and Nature appeared in her most 
enchanting garb. After a few hours' sail we disembarked and 
took the cars for Grenville, a distance of 18 miles, in order to 
escape the rapids of the Otiawa. The railway passes through a 
partially cleared district, with here and there a farm house 
nestling in the woods. 

At Grenville we took the Queen Victoria steamer and continued 
our voyage up the river. The scenery still was very attractive, 
and the eye is feasted on every side. The boundary line between 
the provinces of Quebec and Ontario is near this, or, in other 
words, the division between Lower and Upper Canade. W« 
passed on our way many clean-looking villages built of wood, 
with generally a neat, unpretending church and spire, with 
school attached. These villages are in many cases inhabited by 
Scotch settlers, who still retain their old and time-honoured 
Presbyterian predilections handed down by their forefathers, 
although now far removed from the dear old parent country. 
In particular, we noticed a village in the township of Lochaber 
peopled chiefly by Highlanders, and one could not help recalUng 
the thought that, though in a far distant land, their hearts still 
yearn for " the land of the mountain and the flood." The 
plaintive strains of " Lochaber no more " may be still heard in 
the lonely backwoods, calling up tender memories of Caledonia. 
Our steamer called at a good many townships, and we enjoyed 
heartily at the difierent landing stages the cordial greetings of 



30 



those who came to meet their friends on board the steamer, this- 
being the chief mode of communication with Montreal, Quebec, 
and other parts of Lower Canada. Conveyances of every con* 
c&ivable description, from the mule or donkey covered cart to 
the higher grade of carriage drawn by a pair of stout ponies, all, 
however, rather original in style and appearance, were to be seen. 
During our sail up to Ottawa we obtained much valuable 
information from an intelligent gentleman, the son of a Scottish 
settler in the district of Buckingham, with regard to life in the 
backwoods and the system of Canadian farming in general, 
which we found to be corroborated from other sources after- 
wards. In regard to emigration from the old country, a stout, 
healthy, industrious man, with an active helpmate and rising 
family, has the best chance of eventually succeeding as a settler 
in Canada. No doubt it is uphill work at first, but persever- 
ance, accompanied by good health, will surmount all obstacles. 
If the land is uncleared, — that is to say, in its natural, primeval 
state, — it can be bought for 10 dollars an acre (a Canadian dollar 
is worth 4s 3d in our money). It is estimated that 1 3 dollars will 
put it into a half-cleared state, coupled with hard work. If the 
settler can afford to purchase land partially cleared, this can be 
got at from 25 to 30 dollax-s an acre, and we would think this 
the more preferable mode. The first thing to be done is to have 
a wooden house erected, with necessary offices ; then commence 
to cut down the trees, perhaps two or three feet above the 
ground. The wood principally consists of pine, maple, birch, 
beech, &c. The pine is used for saw logs ; the inferior kinds of 
wood are chiefly cut up into firewood. The stumps of the trees 
are sometimes burned to facilitate decay, as it takes about twenty 
years for them to i-ot out in their natural course. After getting 
a part of his land fit for cropping, the settler grows a little 
wheat, potatoes, and Indian corn, potatoes being planted with 
the hoe round the tree roots. The soil is very rich, capable o^ 
carrying many crops in succession without manure. All through 
the valley of the Ottawa (we take this district as a sample) 
patches of pine and hardwood are irregularly mingled, and it is 
wisely ordered that it should be so ; for as the hardwood land is 
that which best repays the farmer's labour, so the pine grove is- 



31 



the mainstay of the lumberer, and each must remain independ- 
ent of the other, while as yet at an inconvenient distance from 
railways or navigable rivers. The climate here being very dif- 
ferent from that of the old country, the system of farming and 
rotation is also different. As we stated before, potatoes and 
wheat are the first crops raised on new land, it being too rich 
for almost any others. Wheat generally succeeds the potiito, 
and it is sown in the potato soil as in new land. Oats follow the 
wheat, but the wheat stubble must be ploughed for its reception. 
All crops in Canada, although put in later in the spring, 
come to maturity earlier than in this coxmtry. The snow 
is usually off and the ground ready for ploughing between 
the 20th of April and the 1st of May. Haymaking commences 
about the 12th of July. An acre and a quarter is the average 
quantity of meadow hay that a man will cut per day in cleared 
land. To show the marked difference in climate, light meadow 
hay has been known to have been cut and put into the barn 
stack on the same day. The more usual system, however, is 
to shake it out soon after being cut, then to rake it into 
" windrows," make small stacks of it by the evening, and next 
day put it into stacks or the barn. The reaping of wheat sown 
in the fall (autumn) begins about the 1st August. If it is not 
lodged it can be "cradled," which means being cut with an 
implement called a cradle, resembling a scythe, and by means 
of which a man will cut at least four times as much as with a 
reaping-hook. Spring Avheat harvest commences about ten days 
later. Oats are generally ripe by the 14th August, and most 
generally are " cradled." Indian corn is gathered in about the 
8th or 10th of September, and it requires four men to the acre 
for the work. \Vomen and children are nearly as useful at this 
as men. There is generally one head on every stalk of Indian 
corn ; this is cut off, and the large, ungainly stalks — sometimes 
ten or twelve feet high — are burnt or otherwise disposed of. 
The Indian corn in Canada does not, however, grow so tall or 
strong as in the western prairies. By the 10th or middle of 
October the crops are secured, unless the weather has been 
unfavourable. The grain, wheat, rye, oats, barley, buckwheat, 
and Indian corn, or maize, are each a sure crop. Pumpkins are 



32 



raised amongst tho Indian coi'n. Tomatoes, melons, carrots^ 
beans and peas, &c., are grown in large quantities. Sixty bushels 
of Indian corn is not an unusual crop per acre. Beet-root for 
sugar, broom-corn, and tobacco, have also been successfully 
experimented with in Canada ; and all vegetables and fruit 
grown in New England and Western States of America may be 
raised in the Ottawa district. A farm of one hundred, or even 
lifty acres, is quite large enough for an industrious settler. 
' Emigrants wishing to come to this part of the counti-y would 
do well to club together in jcint-stock companies of ten or 
twelve, and each company purchase a block of 1000 acres or so 
in the best agiicultural districts, and divide it amongst them.. 
In our own country much misconception arises with respect to 
the amount of capital necessary for a settler in Canada. As 
stated before, a working family, although they may not realise 
a fortune, have it in their power to secure independence, 
and the next generation have the chance of getting on well 
in the world if they succeed to the industrious habits of their 
parents. Settlers have usually a few Ayrshire cows, or short- 
horns ; they are fed in winter on hay and straw, and may be 
worth from 40 to 60 dollars, but these are of the best de- 
scription. Dairy produce always commands a ready sale, and 
the establishment of cheese factories is commencing in the well- 
cultivated localities. Butter of good quality sells well, and is 
even bought up by store-keepers for ultimate shipment to the 
old country. One firm in Perth, the county town of Lanark, 
sold to a firm in Montreal, last fall, 2,800 packages of butter 
in one lot for 50,000 dollars. This quantity held by one firm 
was greater than that of any other retail dealer in the Dominion 
of Canada, and is au indication of the extent of the butter 
trade alone in the county of Lanark ; other large lots were 
also disposed of in Perth. Leicester and Cotswold sheep a,re 
kept by the settler. They have also native sheep, which are 
small, but hardy ; they are whitefaced, and may be Avorth 
six dollars each. Lambs in the fall give 3 to 4 dollars. 
Wool gives, according to qualitj', 30 or 40 cents, a lb., or 
about Is 8d per lb. in our money. Three-year-old cattle in 
good condition bring about 75 dollars each. 



33 



Cattle are allowed to roam at large through the woods in 
summer, and in the fall those intended for beef are in good con. 
dition. When the cold weather sets in they are slaughtered, and 
the meat allowed to freeze, and then, being put into a cold place, 
it keeps nice and fresh till spring. Poultry are preserved by the 
same process, and milk may also be kept through winter in frozen 
Ciikes, a lump being chopped off and thawed as occasion may 
require. The frost and snow make the climate healthful and 
bracing, and the soil more fruitful, and the valuable products of 
the forests are made subservient to the use of man, otherwise 
Canada would not be as she now is — a prosperous and thriving 
country. A considerable number of swine are kept in the 
colony ; they also subsist for most part in the woods during 
summer. Taxes are very light, and in the newer townships 
rarely exceed a few pence per pound ; but all on the assessment 
roll are obliged to perform a few days' statute labour annually 
upon the roads. The clearing of the land is most frequently 
done in winter, and thrashing and milling are also exclusively 
winter employments. Besides purifying the atmosphere and 
enriching the ground, the frost and snow fill up mud-holes 
almost impassable in summer, and convert lakes and rivers into 
excellent roads, over which the farmer takes large sleigh loads of 
produce to mill and market. The want of good roads in Canada 
is a great drawback, but as the colony grows older they will 
gradually improve. 

The wages of a good working man are usually from £30 to 
£40 a year with board and lodging, and that of servant girls 
from ten shillings to one pound sterling a month, also with 
board. A party of upwards of sixty agricultural labourers, 
brought out to Ottawa last year by the Rev. Mr Fletcher from 
Wiltshire, were all taken up by the immigration agent in the 
course of a day or so at 24, 20, and 14 dollars per month, accord, 
ing to their merits. Shoemakers, tailors, blacksmiths, and carpen- 
ters, are the tradesmen most useful in the newer parts of the 
country, and will find ready employment in the various to^vns 
villages, and settlements. Masons, bricklayers, glaziers, &c., will 
also have no difficulty in getting constant work, at high wages, 
in the large towns, at least when trade is good, as it is at present. 



34 

But intending Rcttler.s, whether as farmers or tradesmen, must 
bear in mind that the indolent and intemperate will find uo 
room or encouragement in Canada. 

The mode of farming near the large towns, such as Toronto, 
Hamilton, &c., where the land has for a long period been culti- 
vated, is different in many respects from what we have stated 
above. The value of the land is accordingly more, but, taking 
everything into account, it is a fair sample of Canadian farming 
in general. 

We arrived at Ottawa at eight o'clock at night. The weather 
had turned very cold before we concluded our sail up the river, 
but it was invigorating and bracing to the nerves. The captain 
of the steamer told us that the river would be closed for naviga- 
tion on account of the ice by the middle of November ; after 
that they keep holiday by enjoying themselves throughout the 
long winter until their avocations are resumed in spring. The 
winter is very agreeably spent in visiting, sleighing, &c. 

Ottawa contains about 30,000 inhabitants. It is a rising place, 
being now the capital and seat of Governraeut of the Dominion 
of Canada, and, from its largo connection with the exten. 
sivc lumber trade, is a city of much importance. It is beauti- 
fully situated on the Ottawa river. We went to the Russell 
House or Hotel, where wc had every comfort and attention. 
Ottawa has been selected as the new capital of Canada. For- 
merly the cities of Montreal, (Quebec, and Toronto, had the 
honour by turns, but jealousies sprung up between the rival 
cities, which ended in Ottawa being selected, as being the most 
central and desirable. The Government buildings have been 
lately erected here, and much credit is due both to the architect 
who designed these beautiful and ornamental structures, and to 
the public spirit and patriotism of the Canadian Legislature. 
The Parliament buildings, with dcimrtmental offices, and the 
Queen's Printing House, occupy three sides of a square, on rising 
ground overlooking the river, called Barrack Hill, from which 
there is a fine view of the Chaudiere Falls, at the western 
extremity of the city, which are considered l)y many to stand 
next in importance for beauty and grandeur to Niagara. They 
are immediately above Ottawa, on the river of that name, the 



35 



width of the principal fall beiug two hundred feet, while ita 
depth is forty, the boiling and foaming appearance of the water 
giving its name to the place. On the northern side is the smaller 
or little Chaudiere, and here the waters after their leap disap- 
pear into some subterraneous passage, by which they are carried 
ofif until they again appear at a place called the " Kettles," half 
a mile lower down. 

The rarliament buildings contain two Legislative Halls, one 
for the Senate and the other for the House of Commons, in 
imitation of the Lords and Commons in England, By the kind- 
ness of a gentleman, a member of the Legislature, we had the 
opportunity of seeing the interior of the Houses of Parliament, 
which are handsomely decorated and elegantly furnished. 
Amongst other sights we saw the magnificent library, which con- 
ttuns 65,000 volumes. The buildings are after the Italian Gothic 
style, and built of stone found in the vicinity. The cost is said 
to have been 2,500,000 dollars. The space allotted for members 
is divided into different seats or desks, witli the names of the 
members who occupy them, such as the Honble. So-and-So. 
The members of that august body are always designated 
Houourables. Li the splendid corridors are paintings of the 
principal men who have distinguished themselves as statesmen, 
&c., in the colony. In the interior of the Senate House are 
busts of Queen Victoria and the Prince and Princess of Wales. 
In the city manj' handsome streets and buildings are in course 
of erection, and altogether it 1ms a rising and business air about 
it. In the neighbourhood of Ottawa the land is pretty well culti- 
vated, but it is in close proximity to the backwoods. We took 
a drive to the village of Aylmei-, a distance of 8 miles, at the 
margin of the Lake Ottawa, and had here a gk)rious view of the 
immense forests before us in their primeval state. We were told 
that these forests extend in the same direction two or three 
hundred miles, where few habitations of man can be seen, save 
the lonely wigwams of the Indians, who are fast disappearing 
before the encroachments of the white man. It is dreadful to 
think of a forest on fire, but this happens occasionally. An 
extent of 50 miles long by two to fifteen miles broad was burned 
near Ottawa two years ago. 



36 



Just a day or two before we were at Ottawa, there was a great 
auction of backwood forest land extending to four hundred square 
miles, and which sold at the low figure of one dollar per square 
mile. One tree per annum an acre would pay the original price. 
Some of this timber was three feet six inches in diameter. We in 
this country have no conception of the size and girth of these im- 
mense trees. It is wonderful to see the extent of lumber yards 
in and near Ottawa ; the wood is put up in large piles with 
remarkable neatness and regularity. The principal trees of the 
Canadian forest used in lumbering are the white and red pine, 
the spruce, the hemlock, the balsam, the larch, and the cedar. 
Of all the trees the pine is the most valuable, the white pine 
occasionally reaching 200 feet in height, and making square 
timber 60 feet long by 20 inches. The principal timber produ- 
cing districts are in the possession of Government, and the first 
step of the manufacturer is to obtain what is called a timber 
berth or limit. These are, as alluded to above, sold by auction 
to the highest bidder, the price ranging generally from one dollar 
to one dollar and a half per square mile. The limit holder 
becomes a yearly tenant of the Government at a fixed rent, and 
in addition pays a slight duty per cubic foot of square timber 
taken out, and on each standard log of 12 feet long and 21 inches 
in diameter. Above 25 per cent, of the standing pine is avail- 
able for square timber, 40 per cent, for saw logs, and the remain- 
ing 35 per cent, is undergrowth, useless or damaged. Having 
secured a limit, a party of experienced scouts, generally Indiana 
or half-breeds, are sent to examine the land and seek out groves 
of valuable timber. These self-taught surveyors are very sharp, 
exploring the length or breadth of the unknown territory, and 
reporting t;pon the value of its timber, the situations and capa- 
bilities of its streams for floating out timber, and the facilities 
for its transportation. Having, with the assistance of these 
scouts, selected a desirable grove, a shanty is constructed of the 
simplest description, being built of rough logs, with a raised 
hearth in the centre for a fire-place, and an opening in the roof 
for a chimney, something like the houses in the olden time in 
our own country. A double row of bertha all round serves for 
sleeping accommodation, while from a wooden crane over a per- 



37 

petual fire swings a huge kettle, which, with the accompanying 
pot, serves all the purposes of cooking. The stores of the lum- 
bermen are usually sent up to their forest shanty late in autumn, 
and all preparations are made to commence the work of felling 
as soon as the sap is down. 

White pine is generally found in undulating ground, mixed 
v/ith other timber, and has to be carefully seleeted, none but 
lumbermen being able to detect sound from unsound trees. Red 
pine, on the contrary, grows in unmixed groves, and among 
thousand of trees there will not be found one diseased trunk. 
Around you stretches a vast sandy plain from which thousands 
of smooth straight trees spring to a height of forty or fifty feet, 
without branch or leaf, then spreading out into the magnificent 
evergreen foliage which distinguishes what is commonly called 
the Norway pine. In connection with the lumbermen, fchere 
generally works a cheaper class of men, who cut roads and haul 
the levelled trees to the stream, or to the main road from the 
forest. The number of logs which the lumbermen cut in a single 
winter is almost incredible, and the work of conveying them to the 
nearest lake or river gives employment to numbers of additional 
men and oxen. By hauling the logs over cliffs and dragging 
them down ravines, the lumberers, before the thaw sets in, 
collect along the banks of the various tributaries millions of 
cubic feet of timber ; and when the ice-bound streams become free 
their more arduous and dangei'ous labour commences, and great 
activity is displayed in getting ready for the start or drive usually 
about March or ApriL If the stream is not large enough for cribs 
or small rafts containing about twenty sticks of square timber 
fastened between two round logs called floats, it is drifted down 
separately, the lumbermen keeping up with it, either along shore 
or in canoes, and keeping the stragglers well together with long 
poles. When the larger stream is reached cribs are formed, the 
round logs at the sides and heavy transverse pieces on the top 
keeping the enclosed square timber from injury, and the stream 
carries it down with its gang of men and provisions to the broad 
bosom of the Ottawa. This river from its upper waters to its 
mouth is navigable for cribs and rafts of timber, though it is 
sometimes necessary at rapids or falls where no slides are yet 



38 



constructed to break up the crib and remake it after the separ- 
ate sticks have floated over the falls. A boom is usually thrown 
across the stream below the rapids to prevent the timber floating 
down too far. The life of lumbermen is full of adventure and 
peril, but they are a hardy, vigorous race, and seem to enjoy the 
most robust health and care little for the fatigues they undergo. 
During the summer the shanties and lakes become a perfect 
solitude, for the log chopper has become a log driver, and the 
toiling oxen are permitted to enjoy their summer rest on their 
masters' farms. The trade in timber is yearly becoming more 
extensive, and the following statistics will convey some idea of 
its importance : — Duiing the past year the valley of the Ottawa 
furnished 100,000,000 feet of sawn deals, 285,000,000 feet of 
sawn boards. The St. Lawrence valley producing also 225,000,000 
feet of savvn deals, and 150,000,000 feet of sawn boards. There 
were exported to Great Britain alone, 21,500,000 cubic feet of 
square timber, and 180,000,000 feet of deals. To cut down and 
prepare the timber 15,000 men are employed in the forests, and 
in the saw mills where it is manufactured for exportation there 
are some 10,000 men employed besides. There is also a great 
deal of wood sent to the United States and exported to other 
countries. For the above information regarding Canadian farm- 
ing and the lumber trade we are indebted to a pamphlet written 
by a gentleman connected with that business at Ottawa, which 
was kindly presented to us. 

The Ottawa district is rich in iron ore. Lead is also found 
near Buckingham. Therefore, taken as a whole, the valley of 
the Ottawa is flourishing in every respect. 

We left Ottawa at 10 o'clock p.m. for Prescot Junction, a dis- 
tance of fifty miles, on our way to Toronto. Prescott is one of 
the principal stations on the Grand Trunk Line : we reached it 
in a few hours. Being night we had not an opportunity of see- 
ing the country. The weather was fine, and the early morning 
clear and bracing when we started from Prescott at one o'clock 
A.M. We availed ourselves of a sleeping car, this being the first 
time we had occasion to use one. The Pulman cars, by an 
ingenious method are, as it were by magic, transformed from 
elegant day drawing-room carriages to comfortable sleeping 



39 



berths. The first station of importance reached is Brockvillej 
named after General Brock, who fell on Queenstown heights in 
the war of 1812. It stands on the Canadian side of the St. 
Lawrence, and is said to be one of the prettiest towns in Canada. 
This romantic town is situated at the foot of the Lake of the 
" Thousand Islands," on an elevation of land that rises from the 
river. We may here note that on account of our having taken 
the route up the Ottawa we unfortunately lost the opportunity 
of seeing the surpassingly beautiful scenery of this part of the 
magnificent St, Lawrence and its fairy islands, said to be one 
thousand in number. Brockville contains about 5,500 inhabi- 
tants. We next pass Kingston, a city of some importance, with 
a population of 16,000 ; also Belleville, which, as seen in the 
early dawn, appeared a beautifully situated place. The country 
here and all the way to Toronto seemed better farmed and 
cultivated and more like our own country, the land in general 
being well cleared. Still, however, here and there are to be 
seen enclosures with tmgainly roots, which we are sure our 
own enterprising farmers would soon extirpate. We passed 
Cobourg and Port Hope on Lake Ontario, which we now skirt 
for many miles, and had an enchanting view of that lovely lake, 
or sea, as it would be termed in our country. It was smooth 
as glass, with here and there a white sail upon its waters, glis- 
tening in the morning sun. 

We arrived at Toronto early in the forenoon, and went to the 
Kossin House, an excellent hotel, just in time for lunch, which 
in Canada is about 12 o'clock, our 300 miles journey per rail 
having whetted our appetites. At this stage we have to notice 
that the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada is of gigantic propor- 
tions, about 1200 miles in length, and intersecting a large extent 
of the colony. It has not for some years been in a very prosper- 
ous condition, standing in need of great improvement in the 
permanent way, m«.nagement, and so on. There seems now, 
however, a prospect of this being soon rectified under the good 
supervision of Richard Potter, Esq., and the present directors 
of the line. At a late meeting of that company Mr Potter stated 
that lie and the indefatigable manager of the Midland Railway 
of England, Mr All port, had visited Canada, and gone over th« 

D 



40 



Avhole extent of the railway, and in their opinion it would 
require £1,500,000 of money to be expended to put the line 
into proper working order. It has an immense traffic, and with 
good management, and taking into consideration the great re- 
sources and extent of country it passes through, the prospects 
of the company might be much improved. ■ Toronto, although 
not the capital, may be termed the chief city of Ontario or 
Upper Canada. It was in holiday attire during our stay, in 
expectation of the first visit of Lord DufFerin, the lately- 
appointed Governor-General of British Korth America. The 
pi'iucipal streets Avere tastefully decked out with flags, banners, 
and beautiful arches, bearing suitable inscriptions in honour of 
the event, such as "Welcome from Down," and all breathing 
loyalty to our own beloved Sovereign. Lord DufFerin being a 
native of County Down, gave rise to the motto mentioned 
above. His Excellency's proposed visit was in connection with 
the great agricviltural show to be held in Hamilton a few days 
later, he having intimated his intention of honouring it with 
his presence. The former name of Toronto was Little York, 
until 1834, when it was changed to its present one. It is a 
beautifully laid out city, with wide streets and some elegant 
buildings. The University is one of the chief attractions ; it 
stands in a fine park surrounded by stately trees. We drove 
through the grounds and also into the country. The most 
attractive drive is the one skirting Lake Ontario, where, on a 
tine day, may be seen every kind of vessel, from steamers and 
])leasure yachts down to small boats and canoes. We observed 
near the city a splendid monument erected to the memory o 
the brave volunteers who, like true patriots, fell in defence of 
their country in 18G6, when Canada was invaded by marauders 
or Fenians from the United States frontier. Canada is loyal 
to the core and right well disposed to the mother country, and 
has no desire for union with its Yankee neighbours, as there is 
not much real love between the two races. We trust that 
this country will give the Canadians full credit for devotion to 
the parent country, and far distant be the day when the ties of 
biootl and kindred shall be severed betwixt them. 

,*.fter spending two days at Toronto, we left *t 12 o'clock nooii 



41 



on 23d September for Niagara Falls vid Hamilton. We intended 
to have taken the steamer and sailed across Lake Ontario, a much 
shorter route, but found that the time of the steamer's sailing 
had been changed, the summer season being now considered 
over, therefore we were compelled to go by train a distance of 
about 80 miles. There was a violent thunderstorm at Toronto 
early in the morning, but the weather soon cleared up and the 
day was lovely. On account of the show at Hamilton, which 
was to commence on the 24th and extend over three days, the 
trains were crowded with passengers (a Dumfries Rood Fair was 
nothing to it), and in consequence were much behind time before 
they reached Hamilton. We met with a well-informed German 
in the train, who had been 20 years in Canada : he told us that 
he would not change his now adopted home for Europe. To 
our enquiry whether there were many Scotch settlers in the 
district of Canada to which he belonged, and how they were 
getting on in the world, he replied that there were a good number 
of Scotchmen located near Hamilton, that they generally were 
doing well and in good circumstances ; he added humorously that 
they were a canny and close sort of people but most respectable. 
By this time we suppose he had a sort of vague idea that hie 
fellow-travellers hailed from old Scotland, as their tongues 
betrayed them. The country between Toronto and Hamilton is 
well cultivated, with neat and clean farm houses, the line of 
railway being studded. Wheat, oats, Indian corn, and turnips 
are grown, the soil being rich and fertile. When we reached 
Hamilton Station, long behind time, all w&s bustle and con- 
fusion, and it was nearly 5 o'clock in the afternoon when we 
resumed our journey. We had about 40 miles to travel, per the 
Great Western Railway of Canada, from Hamilton to Niagara. 
The country in passing appeared very much the same as between 
Toronto and Hamilton. Our expectations rose high at the pro- 
spect of soon being within hearing of the awful roar of the world- 
renowned falls and rapids of Niagara. No person can conceive 
the emotion one feels as the train rapidly approaches the suspen- 
sion bridge which connects Canada with the United States, and 
spans the Niagara river a short distance above the whirlpool 
rapids. A feeling of awe, combined with deep emotion, creeps 



42 



over one as the train moves cautiously across the bridge over 
the frightful chasm. The shades of evening had just closed 
around us ; the night was lovely ; and the moon in full majesty 
glided through the starry heavens ; the scene was most sublime. 
There had been a thunderstorm during the day and the atmo- 
sphere was still charged with electricity. Flash after flash of 
the sheet lightning succeeded each other in rapid succession, 
exposing to view the fearful chasm and the boiling surge of the 
whirlpool rapids beneath. The effect of this scene was grand 
beyond conception and never to be effaced from one's memory. 
The bridge is two miles below the Falls, it is 800 feet long and 
230 feet above one of the wildest waters in the universe : it is 
owned by a joint-stock company, and cost about five hundred 
thousand dollars. The Great Western Railway here joins the 
New York Central Railway. The station is on the American 
side, and numerous vehicles were waiting to convey passengers 
to. the town of Niagara, a distajice of nearly two miles. 

We may here mention an incident which occurred on our 
arrivaU The train was no sooner empty than it collided, to use 
a Yankee expression, with another train, and the Pulman car- 
riage in which a few moments ago we had been seated was much 
damaged, and the line completely blocked up for some time. It 
is needless to say we congratulated ourselves on our fortunate 
escape. 

Being again in the land of stars and stripes, all the passengers* 
luggage was examined by the United States Custom House 
officers. Fortunately in our case this was not requisite, we 
having no baggage of any consequence, our intention being to 
return to Toronto. We drove to the Cataract Hotel on the 
American side, accompanied by some friends. This hotel over- 
looks the rapids above the Falls. The view from the windows 
at night was superbly grand. The evening was clear and fair 
as we strolled along the iron suspension bridge over the rapids 
to Goat Island. This bridge is a short distance above the 
Falls, and the great wonder is how it could be constructed 
over such a frightful looking torrent. The first bridge was 
erected in 1817, a little above the present one, at much risk 
of life and great expense, but was carried away by the ice in 



43 



the ensuing spring. In 1810 another was thrown across, 
where Bath Island now stands, by the proprietors of that 
island. A suitable pier was built at the water's edge ; long 
timbers were projected over this abutment for the distance 
they wished to sink the next pier, loaded on the end next the 
shore with stones to prevent moving ; legs were framed through 
the ends of the projecting timbers, resting upon the rocky 
bottom, thus forming temporary piers until more substantial 
ones could be built. A feeling of even horror comes over one 
walking along the bridge over such an awful abyss — a feeling 
which is increased by the noise of the foaming current. The 
lightning was still remarkably vivid, which made the scene one 
of unusual grandeur. 

From the head of Goat Island to the grand cataract, a 
distance of only three-quarters of a mile, the Niagara River 
falls 41 feet. It increases in velocity from seven to thirty 
miles per hour, until it makes its fearful and final leap over 
the majestic Falls a short way below the bridge. Our hotel 
being in close proximity to the rapids and Falls, the noise 
was something tremendous during the stillness of night. No 
sooner are you half asleep after the fatigues of travelling, 
than all of a sudden you are startled by the unearthly and 
deafening din made by this wonder of nature. But by-and-by 
sleep again asserts his superiority and refreshing repose super 
venes, which eventually gains the mxstery over one, although 
disturbed by frightful dreams of being dashed over the tremen 
dous Falls, and for ever annihilated. 

Next morning we rose at early dawn ; it was a lovely day, 
bright, clear, but fearfully hot, and the foaming waters were 
seen to much advantage from the ^vindows of the hotel. The 
town of Niagara is a most picturesque one, the principal streets 
being adorned with beautiful trees. The shops or bazaars are 
unique and attractive, generally all served by ladies, who display 
much zeal in showing off their wares, which principally consist 
of fancy articles made by the Indians. All are sold at ransom 
prices, as their season is only the summer and autumn, and of 
course they "make hay while the sun shines." In winter the 
shops are closed as in Saratoga. There are several large and 



44 



extensive hotels, the International and Cataract being on the 
American side, and the Clifton on the Canadian side. The 
Niagara River connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. The 
cataracts are 22^ miles from the former and 10 miles above the 
junction of the Niagara with Lake Ontario : its fall between 
the two lakes is 339 feet. Along with two friends we engaged 
a carriage for the day, so as to see the sights comfortably, and 
we calculated that the distance travelled would be nearly four- 
teen miles, for which we paid five dollars — not a very extrava- 
gant outlay under the circumstances. We first drove to the 
whirlpool rapids, a little below the railway suspension bridge 
we had crossed the previous night, and after inspecting a variety 
of curiosities at the guide or keeper's house, we descended the 
vertical railway or elevator attached to the precipitous rocks^ 
one hundred and eighty feet, to the edge of the frightful abyss^ 
where we had an exciting view of the suspension bridge and the 
foaming torrent beneath. We can assure our readers that at 
first we did not relish our descent to the lower regions, but after 
regaining the upper world were oui-selves again, and proud that 
we had mustered up the courage of seeing such a natural 
wonder which baffles description. This vertical railway has, we 
believe, been but recently erected, and should any part of the 
rock give way, the consequence would be fearful to contemplate, 
as one would be dashed into a thousand atoms, and, as Pat 
would say, drowned into the bargain. 

The whirlpool is a little lower down, and is visited by all on 
account of the wild and magnificent grandeur of its scenery ; 
the mellow-tints of the tree-clad precipitous banks throwing 
their sombre shadows over the restless waters, and combining 
to add sublimity to the view. 

The river here takes an abrupt turn to the right, like an 
elbow, and from the terrific rush of waters against the opposite 
bank on the Canadian side a mighty whirlpool is formed, in 
which logs of wood and other bodies have been known to float 
for long before finding an exit. We watched with interest 
pieces of wood which again and again were on the point of 
making an escape from the all-devouring circle of waters, but 
were ah\ ays sucked in by the maelstrom. The depth of the 



45 



river at this point is said to be 600 feet, the width 1000 feet, 
and the perpendicular height of the banks 350 feet. 

There is an exciting incident connected with a perilous voyage 
made down the whirlpool rapids. The Maid of the Mist steam- 
boat, which was in the habit of conveying tourists under the 
spray of the Horse Shoe fall, left her mooriugs about a quarter 
of a mile above the old suspension bridge on 1.5th June, 1861, 
and sailed boldly out into the river to attempt the most fool- 
hardy voyage on record. She shot forward like an arrow, her 
" dare devil " pilot bowing gracefully to the multitudes on the 
bridge, and with lightning velocity careered down the fearful 
rapids to meet her supposed doom. All who witnessed the 
reckless adventure expected every moment to see the little 
craft dashed to pieces and for ever disappear, as it was thought 
no power on earth could save her. "There ! there !" was the 
suppressed exclamation of all. " ^^he careers over ! she is lost ! 
she is lost ! " but, guided by an eagle eye and strong hand that 
trembled not, she was piloted through the maddened waters by 
the cool and intrepid Robinson, her pilot, in perfect safety, and 
afterwards performed less hazardous trips on the St. Lawrence. 
She is the only craft so far as known that ever attempted this 
fearful feat and lived. Though our hero the pilot had previously- 
accomplished many daring exploits in saving the lives of persons 
who had fallen into the river, yet this last act in taking the 
Maid of the Mist through the whirlpool rapids was the cHmax 
of all his adventures. The boat lost her funnel, but otherwise 
escaped unscathed, being very strongly built. The pilot, en- 
gineer, and firemiin were all saved, being the whole on board. 
The adventure is supposed to have been undertaken for a wager. 
As for ourselves, we had no great fancy for such pleasure trips. 

We retraced our steps and crossed the Niagara by another 
suspension bridge a short distance below the Falls to the 
Canadian side, when we were soon gratified with a view of the 
cataracts in all their glory. We had heard their roar and seen 
their spray in the distance, but this was our first sight of them • 
the impression produced was intense and beyond description, as 
it would require the most fertile imagination to convey the 
least idea of the scene when it burst upon our view. At the 



46 



first glance one has a feeling almost approacldng to disappoint 
ment, but this is very soon dissipated, and everything else pales 
before you as you stand wrapt in admiration at this magnificent 
picture of nature in her sublimest form. There are differences 
of opinion as to the best side from which to view the Falls, but 
we would give the preference to the Canadian for a general 
view. Beneath the Falls the spray is something fearful ; just 
like a snowdrift, and the reflection of the sun's rays on the 
water is magnificent, showing all the colours of the rainbow, 
and realising the poet's beautiful picture of "love watching 
madness." 

The Horse Shoe fall extends the entire circle from Goat 
Island to the Canadian side of the river ; it is calculated to be 
144 rods in width ; perpendicular height of the Falls, 158 feet. 
It takes its name from its shape. We may here note that the 
rapids diverge from either side of Goat Island, a short way 
above where they take their final and dreadful plunge, part to 
the American, the other and greater to the Canadian side. Pro- 
fessor Lyall computes that fifteen hundred million cubic feet of 
water fall over the Horse Shoe cataract every hour. To give an 
idea of the depth of the rapids, it is said that a condemned 
lake ship, the Detroit, was sent over this fall in 1829, and 
although she drew eighteen feet of water, her keel passed over 
the brink of the precipice without touching the rocks, thug 
showing a solid body of water at least twenty feet deep. 

The American Fall, although it has not this immense volume 
of water pouring over it, is of still greater perpendicular height, 
— one hundred and sixty-four feet, — being six feet more than its 
rival, and is seen to most advantage from a point in Goat 
Island. The depth of the river below the Horse Shoe fall has 
never been properly ascertained. It has been sounded by 
engineers and others, but, owing to the under current, no cor- 
rect idea could be formed. There is a splendid view of the 
Falls to be had at Prospect Tower, on the Canadian side ; and 
west of Goat Island we ascended it. The stairct*se for several 
stories up are all written and daubed over with visitors' names 
from all parts of the world, leaving now not a vestige of room 
for any more. Here you have a glorious sight of the cataracts, 



rapids, &c., and again your wonder and delight are intensified 
with the view. Near this is the hotel where those who wish to 
take a bath under the Horse Shoe fall retire to change their 
dress, assisted by a guide, and on their sallying out for their 
adventurous trip, the metamorphosis is something unique and 
amusing. Ladies and gentlemen, who a short time before went 
in attired in the highest style of fashion, now appear in oil skins 
from head to foot — just like Esquimaux Indians — which does 
not tend to improve the appearance. Attended by a guide, 
they descend a long staircase at the " Cave of the Winds ;" they 
cautiously grope their way under a portion of the cataract, and 
have the satisfaction of seeing the immense body of water 
rushing over them, and were it not for their oil-skin protection 
they would literally be drenched with the spray. Parties, how- 
ever, do not venture far across now — as some years ago portions 
of the rock gave way— so the feat may be considered more in 
the Ught of bravado than anything else. Our friends ventured 
in, but we contented ourselves with the view from terra firma. 
The roar of the falls depends much on the wind and the state of 
the atmosphere. Sometimes it is heard from fifteen to twenty- 
five miles away, and even at Toronto, a distance of forty miles, 
as the crow flies, across Lake Ontario. The rocks at the Falls 
are wearing slowly away with the friction of the water, a fact 
perceptible in the recollections of some who have visited the 
cataracts many years ago. Niagara is a corruption of the Indian 
word " Onyakara," supposed to be the Irroquois language, as 
the Irroquois were the first who dwelt here, so far as known. 
The meaning of the term is " mighty, wonderful, thundering " 
water. 

It is said that every year some person goes over the Falls from 
foolhardiness or accident. A melancholy instance we will relate 
as being one of the most heartrending on record. On the morn- 
ing of 19th July, 1853, much excitement was created by the dis- 
covery of a man on a log in the rapids, midway between the 
main shore and Bath Island, a short distance below the bridge, 
on the American side, and very near the Cataract Hotel, where 
we staid. The place was pointed out to us, and we could not 
help a shudder of horror coming over us as we looked at it. 



48 



The rock against whicli the log had fixed may be seen from 
the bridge or bank. A man named Avery, and another person, 
being in the employ of a Mr Brown, boating sand, about two 
miles above the Falls, took a boat at ten o'clock at night for si 
pleasure sail. The next morning Avery was discovered on the 
log above mentioned, and this was no sooner known than thou- 
sands of people congregated to see the unfortunate man and 
adopt any means in their power to rescue him from his perilous 
position on the rapids. In the first place a small boat was let 
down ; but it filled with water, and sunk before it reached him. 
By this time a lifeboat from Buffalo had arrived, and was lowered 
into the foaming current ; this reached the log Avery was on, 
passed by above it, capsized, and sunk. Next a small boat was 
let down, which reached the spot all right, but the rope got en- 
tangled under the log, and could not be got loose ; so this failed. 
Another plan was tried ; a raft was let down all right, which he 
got on, and it was moved towards Bath Island, but the ropes 
got entangled in the rocks, and the raft stuck fast. Another 
boat was then launched to take him from the raft, but on its reach- 
ing it the water dashed the boat against the bow of the raft, 
which gave a sudden jerk, and Avery, nrt using the means 
employed for his safety, — viz., ropes for him to hold on to, or to 
tie himself with, — stood erect on the stern of the raft, and as the 
boat struck he lost his balance, and the awful current carried 
him over the cataract. This was in the evening, after he had 
been exposed for a whole day in the broiling sun. What his 
emotions must have been during the trying hours when his fate 
was trembling in the balance no tongue can tell, nor imagination 
conceive. It is said that when taking his last dreadful plunge 
over the cataract, he raised and waved his hand in token of a 
last farewell to the thousands who witnessed his sad fate. It 
was truly an awful scene, Mr Arthur Peel, now M.P, for War- 
wick, son of the late Sir Robert Peel, related this incident to a 
friend when, a few years ago, he was on a visit to Colonel Walker, 
M.P., at Crawfordton. Mr Peel was an eye-vsdtness of this 
tragical event. 

There are many objects of interest to be seen at Niagara, for 
all of which you have to put your hands in your pockets very 



49 



frequently, as the Americans know well how to charge their 
cousins from the old country. 

We took a drive through Goat Island, which is beautifully 
laid out, and romantically wooded. We were fortunate in the 
weather, which was superb. 

The Niagara is quite placid and smooth above Goat Island^ 
and one can scarcely conceive how it can be lashed into such 
fury so immediately below. Any person boating in the river 
at the head of Goat Island has to exercise the greatest caution, 
as the least diversion to one side or the other would result in 
his being sucked into the rapids on either side of the Island, 
and if once fairly into the foaming current nothing could save 
him from being carried over the dreadful cataracts. In con- 
nection with this subject we could give several examples of 
heartrending scenes, but are afraid of trespassing too much on 
the patience of our readers. There is an Indian tradition that 
two human beings aanually will be sacrificed to the Great Spirit 
of the Waters. 

A winter scene of the Falls is said far to surpass a summer 
one in grand effect, the frozen sj^ray and huge masses of ice 
adding much to the magnificence ot the view, especially when 
seen by moonlight. 

It is recorded that Father Humphries, a Jesuit missionary, 
was the first white man who saw the Falls. He was sent out 
by the French among the Indians 192 years ago. His descrip- 
tion of them Avas an exaggerated one ; he computed the height 
of the Falls to be six or seven hundred feet, that four persons 
could walk abreast under the immense volume of water rushing 
over the cataracts without any other inconvenience than a slight 
sprinkling of spray. This wild and fanciful descrip^tiou he had 
in all probability acquired from the Imlians. 

Before leaving Niagara, we may mention that the hotels are 
excellent — among the number the Cataract and International 
on the American side, and the Clifton House on the Canadian 
side. 



50 



Chapter IV. 

HAMILTON — CHICAGO — PRAIRIE FA RMING. 

After a pleasant sojourn of two nights and a day we left this 
world-renowned place on the 25th Sept, at half-past five o'clock 
in the morning (they rise early in the new world) and took the 
cars for Toronto. It was a lovely morning when we again 
crossed the suspension bridge. The sun in all his glory had just 
risen, and his rays were reflected on the mighty Falls, which, 
seen in the distance, had a most imposing and never-to-be-for- 
gotten effect, especially when looked at for the last time ; the 
mere recollection of it will always remain a white stone in our 
calendar. 

On account of the great show at Hamilton still going on, the 
train was crowded, and we passed many stations where eager 
passengers were waiting for conveyance to that city, but owing 
to want of accommodation many were left behind with disap- 
pointment depicted on their countenances. There seemed to be 
a great want of method in arrangement and punctuality of 
trains in the Western Hemisphere. We arrived at Hamilton 
long behind time. While waiting at the station we saw a party 
of Indians who had left their wigwams to mix with the civilized 
world at the show. They were copper-coloured, and short of 
stature. The females were adorned with ornaments, not of the 
most costly description. However, they seemed (not unnatur- 
ally) pleased with their fantastic api)earance. 

On our arrival at Toronto we found that it had on the previous 
night been the scene of great rejoicings, Lord Dufferin, the 
Governor-General, and his lady having paid their first visit to 
this city, and been met at the station and escorted to the 
Government House by a torchlight procession, the citizens- 
being anxious to show their loyalty and respect to the repre- 
sentative of our beloved Sovereign. 

In the evening we went out to see the illuminations in the 
streets. These had a fine effect. There was to be a grand ball at 
the Government House in honour of the visit of the Governor- 
General, to which all the principal citizeus were invited. The 
Government House was lit up magnificently and with exquisit* 



51 



taste. We learned next morning from visitors at the hotel with 
whom we were acquainted, and who had been honoured with 
invitations, that the ball was a great success. We may note that 
from the great influx of strangers at Hamilton we found it im- 
possible to find room in any of the hotels, which necessitated 
our return to Toronto. The following being a gala day in con- 
nection with the great show at Hamilton owing to the expected 
visit of Lord Dufi'erin, we left early in the morning for that 
city. The train was crowded with passengers, and the scene 
at the station on our arrival was something novel. There were 
visitors from the remotest parts of Canada and the prairies of 
the far West ; in fact, these people think less of travelling 500 
miles than we would 50 miles at home. On arriving at the 
show ground what principally impressed us was the great pre- 
parations made and the extent of the exhibition in every depart- 
ment. The show was held about a mile from the town, and 
occupied a large space. It was calculated that on that parti- 
cular day no less than 25,000 people were admitted. In the 
afternoon the Governor-General and Lady Dufferin, accompanied 
by a few of the principal Government officials, drove in open 
carriages through the show yard. They were well received, 
and most enthusiastically cheered, his Excellency appearing to 
be very popular in Canada. 

Amongst the stock shown were Ayrshires, Galloways, Devons, 
and some splendid specimens of shorthorns. ■ The show of horses 
was good, not including many of the draught horses we have in this 
country, but all hardy, useful-looking animals, fit for carriage or 
saddle, with a considerable amount of breeding about them. In 
the sheep department were South Downs, Leicesters, and Cots- 
wolds, with a sprinkling of the native breed. No Cheviots were 
visible, possibly for the reason that in Canada there are as yet no 
Brydons, Elliots, Carrutherses, Welshes, or Johnstones to come 
forward as competitors in this class. Of late years there has 
been a marked improvement in the quality of stock reared in 
Canada, as eminent breeders there spare no expense to bring 
over prize animals from the old country. Swine were muiipr. 
ously represented, the country being famed for that description 
of stock, though thi grumphies are of an enormoua size and 



52 



quite overgrown. There was a fine display of agricultural im 
plements, showing that Canada is a rising colony, and making 
steady progress in agriculture. 

Hamilton may be termed the agricultural capital of Canada, 
being in the centre of a fine tract of country. The town is a 
handsome one, with beautifully laid out streets. The market 
place is spacious, and well adapted for hhe purpose intended. 
The population of Hamilton is about 25,000. It lies, like 
Toronto, on Lake Ontario, and is a shipping port of some con- 
sequence. 

There are a great number of Scotch settlers near this, as also 
at Guelph, which is a thriving town, and has risen rapidly in 
importance of late. As a general rule, the settlers are doing 
well, times being at present good, and trade flourishing. Long 
ago, transactions in stock and produce of all kinds were made 
by barter, but now times have changed, and money is plentiful. 
There is a good demand for labourers and artisans of every 
kind. Railways have done much for Canada, and have tended 
to develop its great resources. 

A^Tien at Hamilton we were so fortunate as to meet with some 
parties who had emigrated from our own district. It is aston- 
ishing, in a distant land, how mutually glad Scotsmen are to 
meet, — the emigrants to learn news from the old country (still 
dear to their hearts;, and we to know how they were prospering 
in the land of their adoption. Judging from those we met 
with we should say that our countrymen are thriving and doing 
well, being steady and industrious. 

We left Hamilton next day at 3 p.m., per Great Western 
Railway of Canada, for Detroit, State of Michigan, on our way 
to Chicago ; Detroit is distant ISO miles from Hamilton. In 
the course of our journey we passed through a well-cultivated 
district of l^pper Canada, lying north of Lake Erie, which^ like 
its neighbour, Lake Ontario, is a beautiful one. We passed the 
Canadian city of " London," one of the most flourishing in this 
part of the Dominion. It is situated in a fine agricultural 
district, well cultivated and farmed, London this season will 
be honoured by being the headquarters and place of meeting 
of the Grtat Canadian Agricultural Society's Show. This itself 



53 



is a proof of its importance. Paris, and other places of note> 
were also on our route. 

We arrived at Deti'oit, a large and important city in the State 
of Michigan, and being again in the United States, there was a 
great turn-over of passengers' luggage, which caused a long de- 
tsntion. We crossed the Detroit River by a very ingenious 
ferryboat, the train being run straight on to it without the 
passengers being put to the inconvenience of changing. 

During our journey to Chicago, a distance of nearly 300 miles 
from Detroit, thsre was nothing particular to be seen, the 
country being flat and monotonous. We passed over extensive 
tracts of swampy land covered with water, and the feeling on 
crossing these was neither agreeable nor comfortable. Being 
night, we had a sleeping car division, and enjoyed a capital sup- 
per, served up in the train, which was provided with everything 
necessary in the culinary department. Negro waiters attended 
to the comforts of the passengers. Before reaching Chicago we 
passed the city of Michigan, and skirted for a considerable dis- 
tance the lake of that name, which appeared to be much agitated, 
a storm raging at the time. 

A strange feeling crept over one on approaching Chicago — 
the Empress of the West. Scarcely a year elapsed since all the 
world was startled with the astounding and melancholy intelli- 
gence that this magnificent city was in ashes or nearly so, and 
much sympathy was felt in every clime for the poor sufferers 
who had been left houseless and in great privation without 
shelter from the pitiless blast. Nobly, however, did people of 
every nation respond to their wail of distress, and none more 
so than our own country, connected with them by ties of 
blood and kindred, everyone vying with another to aid them in 
this the hour of their sore trial. 

We arrived at Chicago on Saturday, the 28th September, at 
11 A.M., per the Michigan Central Railway, after a long journey 
of twenty hours' duration, and went to the Tremont Houses 
situated on the boundary line of the burnt and vmburnt parts 
of the city. This hotel is a large and commodious building, 
having a splendid view of Lake Michigan from its windows, 
which in its tempest-tossed state was very grand, the day being 



54 



still wet and stormy, the worst we had experienced in America. 
Despite these adverse circumstances, we sallied forth for a first 
glance of this renowned city now immortalised in history as 
having been the scene of one of the most disastrous fires the 
world has ever heard of. You no sooner set foot on the street 
than you see terrible traces of the devouring element at every 
step; acres upon acres of what were formerly extensive streets, 
with their numerous warehouses and public buildings, now a 
mass of blackened ruins ; but then, at the same time, you 
observe with astonishment and wonder the energy displayed, 
and the determination of its spirited citizens that their city 
should rise up anew out of its ruins with renewed life and 
beauty. Wherever you turn your eye, immense streets with 
massive piles of buildings or blocks (as they are termed) are 
rising up like magic, and even at this time handsome streets 
have replaced the old ones with this advantage, that the new 
houses are all built of stone, whereas before they were chiefly 
wooden erections. 

Chicago only about thirty years ago contained a few thousand 
inhabitants, had no place in the map of America, and was at 
that time reckoned a paltry and obscure village in the remote 
West, when the country was then peopled by the wild Indian. 
Now, despite the cruel blow sustained in 1871, it is one of the 
most rising and flourishing cities of the Union. The city of 
St. Louis on the Mississippi, about 280 miles south-west from 
Chicago, has up till lately carried off the palm as to importance, 
population, &c., in the West, numbering about 400,000 souls ; 
but it requires to look to its laurels, as Chicago, if not now 
superior, is soon likely to rival its sister on the banks of the 
Father of Waters. To make a comparison, these two cities are 
something in the situation in which our own Edinburgh and 
Glasgow stand to each other ; the St. Louis people, like the 
former, hold their heads a little higher than their Chicago 
friends, and reckon themselves more aristocratic, many tracing 
their descent from old English families, for, with all their re- 
publican notions, the Yankees have still a feeling of pride in 
their descent from the old country. 

Chicago, from its situation, is admirably adapted as a great 



55 

commercial emporium in the centre of a fine grain and lumber 
country. The cattle trade is largely carried on, as also that in 
pork. The number of swine reared in the Western States is 
incredible. The Yankees term them hogs, being a more genteel 
name, as they think, than swine. They feed at large in great 
numbers in the forest and prairie land. Chicago is also the 
centre of an extensive railway system to and from all parts of 
the United States, from New York on the east to California on 
the west, a distance of three thousand miles. The number of 
trains that arrive and depart daily is something immense. 

The lumber trade is extensively carried on, a^ also the busi- 
ness in wheat, Indian corn, &c., all of which are shipped exten- 
sively on Lake Michigan, or transported by railway to different 
quarters of the globe. Chicago is said now to contain three 
hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, exceeding even what 
it was before the fire, and is rapidly on the increase, so much so 
that it is computed that one house has been built for every 
hour since April, 1872, to the end of October last, that being 
the close of the building season, as in November hoary winter 
commences in earnest, when the cold is very intense. The ther- 
mometer often stands twenty degrees below zero. On the other 
hand, the summer heat is most oppressive, especially during 
the months of June, July, and August. The atmosphere, being 
so pure and exhilarating, tends to make both heat and cold more, 
endurable. 

The surrounding country is generally flat, consisting partly of 
cleared forest, and partly of prairie laud. 

After our arrival at Chicago we met with some acquaint- 
ances who had left our own quarter to try their fortune in the far 
West, and they kindly offered their services to show us anything 
of importance in and around the city. From them we obtained 
much valuable information. They had known Chicago before 
the fire, and were therefore well acquainted with all the circum- 
stances connected with it. In our peregrinations through the 
city we were much pleased and struck with the elegant design 
and method with which the new streets are laid off, all being 
built at right angles and running parallel to each other. The 
streets are in great confusion with scaffolding, temporary wooden 



56 



erections, lime, and rubbish of all sorts. The wooden pavement 
also is in the worst condition possible for pedestrians, as every 
now and then obstacles come in the way to impede locomotion, 
putting one's temper sadly to the test, especially at night, when 
huge rats cross the path pretty frequently, and for these Chicago 
is also famous. On the whole, no city in the world can show 
such a sight of wholesale building going on at once. It may 
reasonably be supposed that owing to the demand for masons, 
carpenters, &c., wages are very high. We are told that from four 
to five dollars a-day was the rate for good hands. Although the 
fire had been the cause of so much distress, many having lost 
their all, still large fortunes are being made out of its ruins, and 
speculators (worshippers of Mammon) are rife, many of whom 
fear neither good nor bad if they can only make, money. It is 
said that English gold has aided much in resuscitating Chicago, 
as many of the buildings have been got up by British enterprise 
and energy. 

Next day being Sunday, we, like good Christians, accom- 
panied by our old friends, Messrs C , of N , who had 

rejoined us, went to the Globe Theatre. Now, gentle readers, 
don't be alarmed, and accuse us too hastily of breaking the 
Fourth Commandment. We did go to the Theatre, but for the 
purpose of hearing a celebrated preacher, the Rev. Robert 
Collier. He is a Unitarian, and in many respects an extraordi- 
nary man, being considered one of the lions of the West. He 
was originally a blacksmith, and is now a clergyman of notd, 
and occupied the Globe Theatre that evening. It was crowded ; 
he spoke from the stage, and indeed the scene was a novel one, 
and not soon to be forgotten. The finely ornamented building 
with tight ropes suspended from the roof, and other parapher- 
nalia connected with the stage, contrasted strangely with the 
sacred purpose for which we had met. After the preacher com- 
menced, and from his peculiar style, we were at a loss to realize 
whether we were in a church or a theatre. Demonstrations 
were frequent, just according to the cue of the speaker, who 
alternately assumed the tragic and comic style, sometimes draw- 
ing tears, and at other titues loud bursts of laughter from his 
audience. Mr Collier is a man of undoubted talent, and gave. 



57 



■upon the whole, a good discourse ; we will not, however, touch 
upon its doctrinal points. Truly, some Yankee parsons have a 
queer mode of preaching. In this country they would be taken 
for mountebanks ; but if this suits the taste of an American 
audience, of course tiiey have a good right to please themselves 
in that respect. As for ourselves we had not been accustomed 
to scenes of this sort in our churches at home. 

Chicago, we believe, can boast of the largest and most exten- 
sive daily live stock market in the world, and every stranger, 
especially any one who takes an interest in stock, should em- 
brace the opportunity of inspecting this wonderful scene. We 
were fortunate in having frieuds connected with the stock 
market who kindly volunteered to show us the market yard. 
It is situated about five miles from the centre of the city, but 
the tramway cars so much used in America make it of easy 
access. The stock market is said to cover four hundred acres of 
land, subdivided into numerous sections for the respective 
owners, and apportioned so as to contain the different kinds of 
stock, with a wide carriage drive down the centre. Lines of 
railway for transport of stock are run into the yard at almost 
every point, there being every convenience for facilitating busi- 
ness. The number of cattle shown is immense, averaging daily 
from 6000 to 8000 head. They are bought up by dealers who 
sscour the country for hundreds of miles, and are collected from 
the Western States, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Missouri, Illinois, 
Kansas, and even so far as Texas. They are generally coarse, 
big-boned animals, especially those from Texas, whose horns are 
of immense proportions. They are fed on the prairies in great 
herds, and in general are not in high condition. The deaieis 
<^onsigu them to the numerous salesmen in Chicago who find a 
ready market for them in that city, and also to purchasers from 
the eastern portion of the United States to isupply the large 
■cities such as New York, Boston, Philadelphia, where the con- 
sumption is very large. Bargains are quickly struck at the 
stock market, the Yankees being very 'cute and sharp in that 
respect. There is no "haggling " as at our own home markets 
such as Dumfries ^or Lockerbie. A buyer comes up, ofiers so 
much per lb. liva weight ; if this is not accepted, the buyer 



58 



bids the salesman good morning, quickly wheels his horse, and 
is off at a canter, flourishing a most portentous whip, in the use 
of which he is perfect. If a bargain is made the cattle are 
driven on by twenties to a drawbridge, which acts as a weighing 
machine, and by a very ingenious process gives the exact weight. 
This is taken down by the clerk in charge, who hands the certified 
weight to the purchaser, and the latter settles with the seller 
after the market in one of the banks close at hand. When we 
were there the current price per lb. was four cents and a quar- 
ter live weight, equal to fully twopence of our money. 

There are also enormous numbers of hogs shown, brought 
from the States previously mentioned. It is no uncommon 
thing to see five hundred or so in the hands of one dealer. The 
daily average number of this class shown is said to be from 
8000 to 10,000, and in the busiest season it even reaches the 
fabulous number of 20,000. They are sold in much the same 
way as the cattle. 

In the vicinity of the market there are extensive curing 
establishments. Here grumphy goes into one department all 
alive and kicking, and, after undergoing a variety of processes, 
comes out in a very short time ready cured for the market. 
From statistics published we find the number of pork carcases 
packed was 22,036 in 1850, 271,805 in 1860, 688,141 in 1870,— 
thus showing an enormous increase. A considerable number of 
the hogs are also despatched alive per rail to the Eastern States, 
where they meet with ready sale. 

Pork is largely used in America, a favourite dish being poik 
and beans. 

Sheep are also shown in the market, but not to such an 
extent as the foregoing classes. They are principally of the 
native breed. 

The stock market is supplied with the best of water by Ar- 
tesian wells. This great market is generally over by mid-day. 

Those connected with the trade have an early start, which 
may be very agreeable on a fine summer morning, but the very 
reverse when cold winter sets in, as they require to be in attend- 
ance by daylight, and must consequently be exposed to the 
keen frost and snow at that season of the year. 



59 



After spending a few hours most profitably and with much 
satisfaction in seeing this world-famed market, we refreshed 
ourselves with lager beer, which appears to be one of the favour- 
ite beverages in America. It is, however, hardly so palatable as 
Bass's or AllsojDp's bitter beer ; still, as the day was very hot 
and dusty it was most acceptable. 

We next visited the racecourse : it is very fine and beautifully 
kept, as horse-racing is much patronised. Near this, in a large 
field, some splendid animals were grazing, chiefly shorthorned 
cattle, some of which would weigh 200 stones live weight, being 
very fat. Amongst them was an immense bufialo, the finest we 
have seen ; it appeared quite domesticated and tame, but if 
once fairly ai'oused would be a dangerous customer to meddle 
with. 

Bufialo hunting is one of the great sports in the far West, 
and is said to be most exciting. The skins are sold extensively 
in Chicago. We saw also in the same enclosure some Indian 
goats, from whose wool or hair cashmere shawls are made. 

On returning to our hotel we found that Mr Edmund Yates, 
our fellow-traveller in crossing the Atlantic and in difi'erent parts 
of the United States, had arrived on a short visit to Chicago. 
We had the pleasure of hearing this distinguished novelist deliver 
a lecture on " English Manners and Customs " the same evening 
in one of the churches to a large and fashionable audience. His 
polished and agreeable style of speaking, coupled with his racy 
and graphic illustrations, seemed to aSbrd the audience much 
satisfaction and delight, and at the close 'Mr Yates was loudly 
applauded by his American hearers. He lectured next evening 
in a difi'erent part of the city, where he was equally well 
received. We have since learned that his lectures have proved 
a great success in America. 

Being desirous of seeing some prairie farming, in the south- 
west of Chicago, we left for a day's excursion into the country 
early on the morning of Tuesday, the 1st October, by the Chi- 
cago, Alton, and St. Louis Railroad, accompanied by a friend 
acquainted with the district we proposed to visit. We went 
very slowly along the streets, a bell ringing in front of the 
engine to give notice of our approach, and it was some time 



60 



before we cleared the suburbs of the large city. There are a 
great many level crossings in America, and the only precaution 
used to avoid accidents is a signal-board on which is painted 
in legible letters, " Beware of the cars," or " Look out for the 
locomotives." There is nothing remarkable to be seen for a few 
miles after leaving Chicago. We passed several extensive stone 
quarries that are largely used for building operations. The 
seam appears almost inexhaustible. It is of the best quality, 
and can be beautifully dressed. It somewhat resembles our 
whinstone. 

Juliet, the State prison of Illinois, lay on our way, and ap- 
peared from the railway to be an immense pile of building, 
rather an inauspicious sign of the morals of that part of the 
country. The land for a considerable distance after leaving 
Chicago has been cleared from the forest, but farther south 
you enter upon a prairie country, where nothing is seen but 
a wide expanse of level land bounded by the horizon. This 
is monotonous ; still it is relieved by extensive fields, some, 
we are sure, containing one hundred acres of splendid Indian 
corn, and others of equal extent sown with fall wheat. There 
is also a large extent of prairie pasture which has never been 
broken up by the plough. This grass is generally coarse and 
rank, as we say in Scotland, but grazes cattle and hogs well. 
We passed several towns, but none of much importance 
until we reached our destination, the small, primitive town 
of Dwight, wholly built of wood. It is situated seventy-five 
miles from Chicago,' and two hundred from St. Louis. We 
could have wished to extend our trip as far as that important 
city, but time did not permit. Being dinner time, we regaled 
ourselves in a quaint hostelrie with what we would term a tea 
and cofi'ee dinner, at which a variety of dishes were served 
up. These were no sooner placed upon the table than they 
were besieged by swarms of flies and mosquitoes, the day 
being awfully close and hot. We hired a buggy with a pair 
of smart ponies to take us to a model and crack farm about 
four miles distant. Our Jehu was an intelligent youth, and 
on the road gave us some samples of genuine Americanisms. 
He informed us that His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales 



61 



spent a week in this neighbourhood some years ago, enjoying 
Prairie hen shooting. He was very popular during his stay. 
The roads, as usual, were fearfully had, the jolting being ter- 
rific, as the ups and downs were frequent. 

On approaching the house of the gentleman to whom the 
property belonged, we drove up a well-kept avenue. The 
house was a most comfortable-looking one, built of wood, but 
nicely and tastefully painted, with a spacious orchard in front, 
well stocked with the choicest fruit. We stopped at the gate, 
and, being strangers, sent in a message to the owner that we 
were from Scotland, and would feel obliged by his kindly 
allowing us to inspect his farm and premises. He not only 
assented to our request, but came out himself and gave us a 
cordial and hearty reception, and said we were welcome to see 
anything he could show us. He told us his name was Brass, 
that hs originally hailed from Kilkenny, in Ireland ; he came 
out to the West twenty -five years ago, and had been for some 
years in business in Chicago, but unfortunately lost all his 
property in that city by the disastrous fire. Fortunately, pre- 
vious to the fire he had purchased his present property, and 
came to reside on it a few months ago for the purpose of farm- 
ing it himself. It consisted of 640 acres of land of the best 
quality in Illinois ; his crop included wheat and Indian corn, 
and a considerable portion of prairie land ; he kept a dairy of 
forty cows, resembling our shorthorns, about 200 pigs, and a 
quantity of cattle. We visited his dairy, tasted the cheese, 
taken at random from a large stock of immense cheeses, and 
found it excellent. Our friend showed vis a fine shorthorned 
bull, of which he seemed very proud. The pigs were huddled 
together in rather a dirty manner ; those we saw were quite 
young ; the older ones were feeding in the prairies. We did 
not much admire the style in which the premises were kept, as 
everything was taiodry-looMng. Mr Brass informed us he had 
an excellent crop of wheat and Indian corn last season, that his 
prairie grass was good where he grazed his cattle and hogs, and 
also that his land was very rich, so much so that many crops 
could be taken in succession without the aid of manure. We 
inspected a splendid field of Indian corn of great height, the 



62 

stalks as tall as from 12 to 14 feet ; the heads of grain had been 
recently plucked. The wheat sown in the fall looked luxuriant. 
Our friend told us that wheat only brings the small price of 
Is per bushel, and Indian corn 9d. These appear very small 
figures when compared with the prices in this country, but the 
expense of transit is great, and this makes a very material dif- 
ference. There was an excellent crop of wheat throughout the 
Western States and California last season, and this has the effect 
of keeping home prices reasonable, notwithstanding the adverse 
harvest we experienced. The gentleman told us he was getting 
tired of farming life, that it didn't suit his taste, and he there- 
fore intended returning to business again in Chicago, when he 
got a suitable opportunity of disposing of his property. The 
land-steward of an English nobleman visited him lately and 
offered him £6000 for it. This, however, he declined, being 
unwilling to take less than £7000, and the money paid down in 
cash, as it is a general custom here for the purchaser to pay by 
instalments, which is not so satisfactory. After our walk 
through the farm, Mr B, kindly asked us into his house for 
refreshment. We went, and were introduced to his active and 
good-looking wife, w*ho had just been busily engaged gathering 
beautiful apples in the orchard. If we didn't think the outer 
premises too well kept, there was a marked contrast in the dwell- 
ing-house ; this was beautifully clean, quite a treat to see, the 
apartment we were in being neatly painted, and furnished with 
much good taste. We had some excellent Scotch whisky, with 
plenty to eat, and felt so much at ease that we could scarcely 
believe we were in the State of Illinois, upwards of 4000 miles 
from home. 

We took farewell of our kind host and his better half, much 
pleased with the reception and attention they had given us. 

It was a lovely evening on our way back to Chicago, the sky 
was clear, and we had the pleasure of seeing one of those 
glorious sunsets only to be seen on the prairie. There is no 
twilight in this part of the world ; when the sun sinks below 
the horizon everything is soon enshrouded in darkness. We 
arrived at Chicago at night, much pleased witV our excursion 
to the prairie. 



63 

Next day we took a drive along the shores of Lake Michigan. 
The day was fine, and the lake looked hke burnished silver in 
the sun's rays, a£fording a striking contrast to its appearance 
a few days before, when it was agitated by a storm. We 
visited the Park, which, when finished, will be one of the or- 
naments of the city. It embraces a large extent of ground, and 
is being tastefully laid out. The old cemetery is contiguous to 
it, and part of it is thrown into the park, and here we must 
protest against this desecration, for, on passing along, we were 
shocked at the wholesale raising of the dead, and at seeing the 
huge boxes used for putting the coffins and bones into, to be 
re-inteiTed elsewhere. We do not think in our free country 
such a shameful act would be permitted or even attempted. 
During our drive we had an opportunity of seeing more of 
the devastation caused by the fire. It brought to our recol- 
lection somewhat of the appearance that Paris exhibited after 
the partial destruction of that beautiful city by the Commun- 
ists, and by the engines of war employed against it during the 
siege. Of course, in Chicago no traces of shot and shell were 
visible. There are some fine streets in Chicago, amongst others, 
Madison and Wabash Streets, Michigan Avenue, &c. There are 
a great many banks in the city, but few of them have much 
pretensions in point of architecture. The fire made great havoc 
amongst the hotels ; however, some magnificent ones are in 
course of erection, one of which is said to contain 800 rooms. 
On our return to the Tremont House, we observed in the even- 
ing newspaper of that day (2d October) the heartrending news 
of the dreadful accident on the Caledonian Railway at Kirtle- 
bridge that same morning, which had been flashed over by 
the Atlantic cable. The rapidity of this intelligence was 
astonishing, but it must be borne in mind that Chicago time 
is six hours behind that of Greenwich. 

There are immense granaries and stores of grain in Chicago, 
business of every description is carried on vigorously, and if the 
city continues to flourish in the same ratio, in a few years it 
will be one of the largest in the Union. The State of Illinois is 
a most extensive one, extending northwards 380 miles, and 
westwards 200 miles, and is bounded by Wisconsin on the 

I 



64 



north, Lake Michigan and Indiana on the east, Kentucky on the 
south, and Missouri and Iowa on the west. There has been of 
late years a great influx of settlers. For long it was the farthest 
removed from civilization of any of the United States, but new 
fields of enterprise are opened up now still farther we»t — such 
as Kansas, Nebraska, and Minnesota. 



Chapter V. 

LOUISVILLE. 

We left Chicago after a pleasant sojourn of five days, and 
took the cars on the evening of the 3rd October for Louisville 
in Kentucky, 300 miles distant. The weather was fine but very 
hot, and travelling by night was more pleasant than during the 
day, when the sun's rays were scorching We passed through 
the fertile State of Indiana, and stopped for a short time in 
Indianapolis; it lies in the centre of a fine country, and is a 
city of some size and importance. In a lovely, balmy morning 
we admired the landscape exceedingly. The land has been 
reclaimed from the forest, but appears well farmed, with snug- 
looking, though fantastic farmhovises interspersed. We noticed 
greiit numbers of cattle and sheep grazing, and hogs snorting in 
the woods. Indian corn, as i;sual, appeared to be the staple 
crop, the land here not being of such a rich nature as the prairie 
land of Illinois, and on that account not so suitable for wheat. 
We reached Jeffersonville before we crossed the Ohio river by a 
fine bridge, and arrived at Louisville. The Ohio, a large and 
splendid river, has a course of one thousand miles, and falls 
into the Mississippi. Its average width is about half-a-mile. 
For half the year this river throughout its whole length has a 
depth of Avater sufficient for first-class steamboats. It is, how- 
ever, subject to a very high rate of tidal rise, reaching an average 
of fifty feet, the lov\-est point being in September and the high- 
est in March. 

Louisville is situated in the north of Kentucky, and is the 
capital of that State. It contains about one hundred thousand 
inhabitants. It has somewhat of an old-fashioned look. It has 



65 



a very romantic site near the Falls of the Ohio, which can be 
seen from the citj'-, and the landscape is beautiful when the river 
is at its highest. The Falls are scarcely visible, and steamboats 
can pass over them freely ; but when the water is low, the river, 
which is nearly a mils broad here, has the appearance of numer- 
ous streams of foam rushing over the Falls. The streets of 
Louisville are generally wide, well paved, and delightfully 
shaded with majestic trees. We stayed at the Gait House in 
Main Street, which is a very well conducted hotel. We had a 
letter of introduction from the manager of the Tremout Hotel 
'at Chicago kindly offered to us to his friend Colonel Johnstone, 
manager of this hotel. There are a gi'eat many colonels, majors, 
&c., in America, who sprung up like mushrooms during the 
late war. Our friend the Colonel was very attentive during our 
stay. 

The morning was oppressively warm when we arrived. We 
could scarcely imagine a day in October to be so overpowering, 
forgetting for the time that this city is in latitude 38°, a marked 
difference from our own of 55°. After breakfast, we hired a 
conveyance and took an excursion into the country, visiting first 
the Cemeteiy, which, as in all American cities, is one of the 
principal objects of interest. This is beautifully situated on 
rising ground, from which there is a splendid view. The ground 
is tastefully laid out, and the monuments at once chaste and 
magnifi.cent. No carriage is allowed to pass through the Ceme- 
tery except at a walking pace, so that we had ample time to 
look around. Proceeding further into the country, we were 
charmed by the neat and c'osy appearance of " The CIJ Ken- 
tucky Homes," the farm-houses being generally good and beau- 
tifully ornamented, each having a fine orchard attached. The 
country, however, had a parched and burnt up appearance, from 
the long-continued drought, and from the sandy nature of the 
soil. The Kentucky farmers are famed for the good quality of 
their stock. The cattle are strong but coarse-looking. All 
kinds of grain are grown here. At this season of the year the 
trees were looking splendid, clothed in variegated foliage. The 
negi'o element here is very apparent. We thought of the time 
not many years ago when they were bought and sold like stock 



in the market place, and again these lines of Cowper were 
recalled to our recollection — 

Fleecy locks and dark complexions 

Cannot sever nature's claim ; 

Skins may differ, but affection 

Dwells in white and black the same. 
Left Lomsville on the morning of 15th October for Cincin- 
nati, the capital of Ohio, one hundred and ten miles distant, 
and had therefore the opportunity of seeing a considerable 
portion of Kentucky. All the way through the country was 
rich and beautiful, but very much burnt up with the long- 
continued drought, a marked contrast to the wet season experi- 
euced in Scotland ; here you see more gentlemen's seats than is 
common in Amercia, but nothing to compare with the baronial 
residences of old England with their parks and stately trees. 
We passed some very fine houses, all having extensive orchards* 
and every description of grain seems to be raised here ; the 
tobacco plant is also grown, as we observed large quantities of 
the leaves spread out to dry. 

We were startled by being brought to an abrupt standstill, and 
on looking out were surprised to see an engine off the rails, and 
splinters of broken carriages scattered profusely in every direction. 
On speaking to the conductor of the train, he told us that he 
"calculated" an accident had happened the previous morning, 
but "guessed" that no lives were lost. An accident of this 
nature seems to be not uncommon in the West, and apparently 
is taken as a matter of course. After a few hours' journey we 
crossed the Ohio river by a magnificent bridge, and arrived at 
Cincinnati about mid-day. Ohio is one of the largest and most 
important of the Western States, and is said to be third in the 
Union with regard to population and wealth ; it is two hundred 
miles long and about the same in breadth. Cincinnati is a 
splendid city, with a population of 350,000, and is termed the 
*' Queen city of the West." American cities are very much 
alike, especially in the way in which their streets are laid off, 
and this one is no exception to the rule. They run at right 
angles, and parallel to each other. We drove out to Clifton, a 
place of much resort ; from it a glorious and magnificent view 



67 

of the Ohio river, gracefully bending on its course, with a fine 
expanse of country, is obtained — comprehending Kentucky on 
the one side and Ohio on the other — the river still formiug the 
boundary between the north and south. We had a driver 
originally from the Emerald Isle, an intelligent man, very loqua- 
cious, and anxious to afford all the information in his power. 
On enquiring how the slaves who had lately obtained their free- 
dom were getting on in Kentucky, he, in the style peculiar to 
Irishmen, replied, " Och, yer honour ! they are far more thought 
of and better off than us whites now." In the vicinity of the 
city are numeroiis elegant mansions, croquet appearing to be a 
favourite game on the lawns. There being great excitement 
about the Presidential election, we had the good fortune to see 
a torch-light procession of Grant's supporters. This had an im- 
posing appearance, many thousands of men marching along with 
torches, accompanied by bands of music playing some well-known 
Yankee airs. It may be in the recollection of your readers that 
it was at a convention sitting in Cincinnati that the late Horace 
Greeley was nominated as future President. 

Cincinnati has a very large pork trade, and altogether is a 
rising place, and of great commercial importance. During our 
short stay we were located at the Burnet House, an excellent 
establishment. Left at 10.30 p.m. for Washington, a distance of 
neai-ly six hundred miles, per the Baltimore and Ohio railway. 
We took the precaution, before starting, of procuring sleeping 
berths, for when this is not attended to when you purchase your 
ticket it is often impossible to secure them after you enter the 
train, there being generally a great demand for them. The 
Baltimore and Ohio railroad passes through the grandest and 
most romantic scenery almost to be seen in America. For 
about two hundred miles we travelled through the State of 
Ohio. It was early morning when we reached Parkersburg in 
Virginia. The Ohio is crossed by another elegant bridge. We 
had breakfast at Parkersburg ; and being fortunate as to 
weather, the day being clear and warm, we had the gratification 
of feasting our eyes on scenery of surpassing beauty and gran- 
deur. We noticed with interest nice little snug cottages, built 
of wood, with neat little gardens and small plots of land well 



68 



cultivated. These are chiefly occupied by negroes whose " pica- 
ninnies" were seen skipping about "as merry as grigs." The 
tobacco plant is cultivated largely in Virginia, The land is 
rich and fertile, and the climate is good. On our way we passed 
many places of importance. Petroleum, famed for its oil 
springs, Grafton, Cumberland, &c. We now entered the lovely 
valley of the Potomac, which the railway skirts for a long dis- 
tance. The river is very small and diminutive looking at first, 
but gradually increases in size and importance as it flows towards 
the sea. The country all around its banks is undulating and 
beautifully wooded. Altogether, the scenery was most en- 
chanting, reminding one in some degree, although on a much 
larger scale, of the scenery around Blair Athole and Dunkeld in 
our own Scotland. The Potomac is rich in historical interest, 
its banks forming the battle ground of many a bloody conflict 
between the Federal and Confederate armies in the late civil 
war. The train stopped at Martinsburg to allow passengers 
time for tea. This place was noted during the war as having 
been taken and retaken several times. AVe reached Harper's 
Ferry just before dusk. This is a notable place. It is situated 
at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. 
Harper's Ferry is 82 miles from Baltimore. It was near here 
where Booth, the assassin of the late President Lincoln, was 
captured and shot in a barn. The scenery at Harper's Ferry is 
superb and grand. This point was a place of much importance 
during the war, and was the scene of many skirmishes. After 
a long and tedious journey we arrived at the city of Washington 
at 10 o'clock at night and took up our quarters at Ebbit's 
Hotel. 



Chapter VI. 
Washington— Philadelphia. 
Washington City, the political capital of the United States, is 
situated in the district of Columbia near the banks of the 
Potomac River, in the midst of a lovely landscape. It was 
chosen by Washington himself as the spot on which to rear the 



69 



future capital of the embryo Kepublic. From the heights 
aroimd a magnificent view of the beautiful waters of the Po- 
tomac is to be had. It is a considerable seaport, and of late 
years has risen greatly in commercial importance ; its population 
has much increased, and now amounts to one hundred thousand. 
Although for long the headquarters of Congress and courts 
of law it was reckoned a dull, quaint city, with not much spirit 
about it ; now it is vastly improved ; its streets are spacious 
and well arranged. 

On the morning after my arrival I sallied forth to see the 
lions of the city and surrounding neighbourhood, which is rich 
in histoi'ic interest. I went first to the White House, the 
President's mansion. I presume it takes its name from its 
being painted white ; it is an elegant but not imposing edifice, 
built of freestone, only two storeys high, and one hundred and 
seventy feet long. On the north side, upon Pennsylvania 
Avenue, the building has a portico, with four Ionic columns, 
through which carriages pass ; a circular colonnade of six Doric 
pillars adoi'ns the Potomac front. In the centre of the lawn 
across the avenue on the north is a bronzed equestrian statue of 
General Jackson, erected 1853. Near the White House, on one 
side, are the unpretending offices of the Navy and War 
Departments, and on the other those of the State and Treasury. 
On entering the White House I was shown the apartments open 
to the public ; these are all plain, but adorned with i)aintings 
of eminent men who have figured in United States history, 
such as Washington, Jefferson, Van Buren, and Lincoln. While 
inspecting those objects of interest I incidentally enquired of 
the attendant whether President Grant was at present in the 
White House. He replied in the affirmative, and after scanning 
me narrowly, added, " Did I wish to see him ? " Not having the 
remotest idea of being so privileged, I said, " I would esteem it 
a high honoui-." The attendant then said, " Oh, just follow 
me." After ascending a long staircase I was ushered into a 
large room, where I was received by a gentleman, who poHtely 
asked me to be seated, and requested me to send in my card to 
the President. This I did, and in a very few minutes a 
** coloured " attendant came with the President's order of ad- 



70 

mission. On being ushered into the presence I found the 
President seated at the head of a long table with immense piles 
of letters and documents before him. He rose and shook hands 
cordially, asked me to be seated, and immediately entered into 
conversation. On my stating that I was a Scotsman, and had 
been travelling through part of America, the President enquired 
how we were pleased with the country. I said that we had 
been much gratified, and that America was really a wonderful 
country. " Yes, so we Americans think it is," was the Presi- 
dent's prompt reply. He mentioned that he had just seen a 
fellow-countryman of mine a few hours before. After a few other 
remarks on various subjects, I apologised for trespassing on his 
valuable time, and took my leave. The President, in the most 
afiable manner again cordially shook hands, stating at the same 
time how glad he had been to see a native of Scotland. The Presi- 
dent appears upwards of fifty years of age, and has a pleasing 
expression of countenance, in which, however, the stern soldier 
is clearly depicted. He seems from the cast of his features to 
have a strong will, and emphatically a mind of his own. He is of 
middle size, dark visage, with a grizzly beard, and appears to be 
blessed with an iron constitution. Had not the Alabama claims 
been previously adjusted I might have congratulated myself 
after this pleasing and friendly interview that my persuasive 
eloquence might have had a soothing influence in diplomatic 
matters betwixt the two great nations ! How President Grant 
finds time to see so many strangers is a marvel, and it was all 
the more to be noted at that particular period, when he was so 
much occupied with the cares of State and the approaching 
keen Presidential election. However highly I prized the honour 
of "interviewing" such an important personage, I must at the 
same time give my candid opinion that it was a too undignified 
way of approaching the chief magistrate of a Republic like 
America ; but in that so-called free country it seems to be the 
custom, and one of these notions peculiar to Republicanism. 
What would we in this country think if our own beloved 
sovereign admitted strangers indiscriminately into her august 
presence ? 
After leaving the White House, we crossed the Potomac into 



71 

Virginia. Here the river is spanned by an elegant and extensive 
bridge. We drove five miles through a lovely country, and 
reached the country house where the good and brave General 
Lee v?as born. It is romantically situated on the Arlington 
Heights, and surrounded by magnificent trees. The house is 
a commodious but plain one, — well kept, and the grounds in 
beautiful order. Everything now had a peaceful and calm look ; 
but close at hand you see horrid traces of the late civil war. 
In the cemetery adjoining thousands of gallant men rest in the 
sleep of death. Neatly-painted slabs, in regular rows parallel to 
each other, mark their last resting-place. On each a soldier's 
name is inscribed, and when and where he was killed ; in some 

instances, "To the Memory of Private ; name iinknown," 

a touching inscription — perhaps some fond mother has lost 
her only son, and knows not where his dust reposes. 
This part of the cemetery contains those of the Federal Army. 
A short distance off are buried, in the same manner, the soldiers 
of the Confederate Army who yielded up their gallant spirits 
near to the hallowed spot where their illustrious General Lee 
was born. It may be in the recollection of yoiir readers that 
the noble Lee died some years ago in Virginia, deeply lamented 
by all parties, while his great rival, General Grant, occupies 
now supreme authority. During our visit to the cemetery there 
occurred an awful storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied 
by hailstones of immense size, everything being on a large scale 
in the New World. We enquired of the guide where Bull's 
Run lay. He said it was about 25 miles further south ; but, as 
he was a Northerner, the subject did not seem very palatable to 
his taste. 

After returning to Washington, we next visited the Capitol. 
This is one of the principal sights ; it has an impressing appear- 
ance, stands upon a bold terrace height, and is seen to much 
advantage in the distance, especially on sailing up the Potomac* 
The corner stone of this elegant building was laid by Washing- 
ton in 1793. In 1814 it was burned by the British, together 
with the Library of Congress, the President's house, and other 
public works. It was repaired in 1828 ; and in 1851 President 
Filmore laid the foundation stone of the new building, which 



72 



makes the edifice now twice its original size. The whole length 
is 751 feet, and the area of the ground covered is 3^ acres. The 
surrounding grounds are ornamented with fountains and statu- 
ary. The Senate Chamber and House of Representatives are in 
the wings ©f the Capitol, on each side of the centre building. 
In front of the Capitol, a colossal statue of Washington is 
erected, — the figure is clothed in the Roman Toga, with sword 
reversed, denoting the laying down the power with which he 
has. been invested, having accomplished his end. Congress not 
being sitting at the time, we had not the opportunity of listen- 
ing to American eloquence, or perhaps witnessing a fight in that 
august assembly between some honourable senators. The 
General Post Office lies midway between the White House and 
^the Capitol. It is built of white marble and has a splendid 
aspect. There are numerous hotels in the city, but none of 
them are very remarkable for grandeur or extent. Amongst them 
are Ebbit's, the Arlington, and Willard's, the latter just on the 
point of completion. Washington is well stocked with churches, 
Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist, Catholic, &c. 

On the 8th October, left at 10 o'clock a.m., from the wharf, 
per steamer Arroio, for Mount Vernon, which, being the place 
where Washington lived and died, is the Mecca of the United 
States. When waiting at the wharf were much pleased with 
hearing two darkies playing and singing some of their negro 
melodies, which had a fine effect, as it was really original. 
The weather was all that could be desired, and the sail 
down the Potomac was a most enjoyable one. Mount Vernon is 
16 miles from Washington City, it is situated in the county of 
Fairfax, Virginia, and is seen in the distance many miles off, 
standing as it does on an eminence overlooking the Potomac, 
which is here several miles broad, with a glorious view of Mary- 
land on the opposite side. We lauded at a small jetty about 
half-a-mile from Mount Vernon ; there were about thirty ex- 
cursionists in the steamer, all apparently Americans, with the 
exception of ourselves. We walked up through a winding 
avenue of beautiful trees, which afforded an agreeable and 
refreshing shade from the scorching rays of the sun, the day 
being oppressively hot. About one hundred and fifty yards 



73 

from the house, surrounded by wood and shrubs, is the tomb of 
Washington, held sacred by every American. It is a plain, 
solid building of brick, with an iron gate at its entrance, 
through the bars of which may be seen two sarcophagi of 
white marble, side by side in which rest the ashes of Washing- 
ton and his amiable and affectionate vnie. The burial place 
bears the following modest inscription: — "Within this enclosure 
rest the remains of General George Washington. He died 1799." 
Near the same place several of his relations are interred. Mount 
Vernon House is a plain, old fashioned mansion, with a verandah 
in front oveiTun with flowers. The house is at present in much 
the same state as when Washington lived in it nearly a century 
ago. The room in which the great warrior and statesman died 
is an object of much interest, the old four-posted mahogany 
bedstead in which he lay during his last illness, and the furni- 
ture, all in the same condition as when he breathed his last. 
We saw also part of the camp equipage he used in war, and the 
key of the Bastile presented to Washington by General Lafay- 
ette after the destruction of that infamous French prison. We 
next saw through the garden, which also is kept in its original 
style. At the gate stood an old negro, nearly 90 years of age, 
who had been once a slave or servant to Washington ; he was 
begging, but his Yankee countrymen appeared all to turn a deaf 
ear to his solicitations. We had two hours to wait at Mount 
Vernon, so had ample time to see everything connected with it. 
In the evening after our return from Mount Vernon, we 
found great rejoicings in progress in the streets of Washington, 
when the resvilt of the state elections, which took place that 
day, became known. We left Washington early on the morning 
of 9th October for Philadelphia, via Baltimore. There is nothing 
remarkable in the aspect of the country until you reach that 
city, which is the largest in Maryland ; it has 200,000 inhabit- 
ants, and is a bvisiness place, with a large amount of shii^ping. 
It is situated upon the Patapsco river 12 miles from its entrance 
into Chesapeake Bay. It is built on hill slopes and terraces, 
and has a picturesque appearance. The Washington monument 
is an object of interest, standing as it does upon a terrace 100 
feet above the water at the intersection of Charles and Monu- 



74 



ment streets. Its base is 50 feet square and 20 feet high, sup- 
porting a Doric shaft 176 feet in height, surmounted by a 
colossal statue of Washington 16 feet high. The total elevation 
is 312 feet above the river. The work is of white marble, and 
is said to have cost 200,000 dollars. The Exchange and City 
Hall are fine buildings, 

Maryland was granted to Lord Baltimore by Charles the 1st, 
and named in honour of Henrietta Maria, Queen of England. 
It is one of the most northern of what was termed the slave- 
holding States. It is not of large extent, but rich in minerals, 
especially in the hill districts. Coal and copper mines are 
worked in the State. Maryland grows large quantities of to- 
bacco, and ranks third in the Union for production of this 
plant. The Potomac river is the boundary line between Mary- 
land and Virginia. After leaving Baltimore we crossed several 
creeks of the sea by suspension bridges, one of them a mile long. 
Near Philadelphia the land is rich and well cultivated. We 
saw numbers of cattle grazing, and the farmhouses seemed large 
and comfortable. The landscape is also dotted with numerous 
gentlemen's seats, probably belonging to the merchant princes 
of Philadelphia, On arriving we went to the Continental Hotel, 
a splendid establishment, almost equal in size to the Fifth 
Avenue, New York, and infinitely more comfortable. 

Philadelphia is a handsome city with magnificent buildings, 
many of them built of pure marble. It contains 800,000 in- 
habitants, being the second city of the United States. It was 
founded in 1682 by a colony of English Quakers, under the 
leadership of William Peun ; the soubriquet of the city of 
brotherly love, which it now bears, was given to it by Penn 
himself. The Declaration of Independence was signed- here, 
4th July, 1776. Here resided the first President of the United 
States, and here too Congress met until about 1797. Phila- 
delphia lies between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, six 
miles above their junction, and 100 miles by the Delaware 
river and bay from the Atlantic. The city lies low, and has not 
a striking aspect on approaching it, but the stranger is agreeably 
surprised on his entry by the elegance of the streets and public 
buildings. Amongst them is the State House where the De- 



75 

claration of Independence was adopted by Congress and pro- 
claimed. The Gerard College is a fine structure ; it was founded 
by the late Stephen Gerard, a Frenchman, who died in 1831. 
We visited the park, which is a magnificent one, only lately 
made. It is divided by a river, and is one of large extent, com- 
prising a thousand acres. The afternoon being fine, and the 
weather charming, we had a good opportunity of seeing life in 
Philadelphia. The difierent carriages and equipages fully 
equalled in style those we had seen in the Central Park, New 
York. From a height in the Park we obtained a magnificent 
view of the city and Delaware River with its forests of masts. 
The shops in general are good, and elegantly fitted up. 

The State of Pennsylvania is second in the Union, as regards 
population, and in many respects one of the most important. 
Its history is remarkable for the fact, which has no parallel 
in the other American states, that its territory was settled 
without war or bloodshed. The doctrines of peace and good- 
will taught by its founder, "William Penn, and his band of 
associates, when they settled down on the sunny banks of the 
Delaware, long acted happily as a charm over the savage 
nature of the Indians. Penn first suggested Sylvania as an 
appropriate name for the new colony, from its being so much 
wooded, but King Charles of England thought if the founder's 
name was prefixed, it would be more appropriate, so it was 
called Pennsylvania. 



Chapter VII. 

NEW YORK — HOME. 

We left Philadelphia on 10th Oct. for New York. The 
country is rich, beautiful, and well cultivated nearly the whole 
way ; the young wheat crop looked especially vigorous and 
strong. Near the vicinity of Jersey City we crossed a swampy 
ill-cultivated place, which we thought anything but creditable, 
lying so near New York, and which might have been drained 
and turned to better account. As the station was on the Jersey 
Bide of the river, we were trans-shipped to a large ferry boat 
plying to New York, landed safely, and were soon again at our 



76 

old quarters at the Fifth Avenue Hotel, where, after so much 
travel and fatigue, we almost fancied ourselves at home. The 
same afternoon we had the opportunity of seeing many thou- 
sands of the New York Militia, who that day had been in- 
spected, march past the Hotel. They were in all different 
uniforms under the sun, and lost nothing for want of show ; 
they in a marked degree lacked the soldier-like appearance and 
discipline of our troops, and it would even be doing our own 
volunteers little credit to say that in our opinion they infinitely 
surpassed our Yankee friends in calibre, steadiness, and drill. 
We also saw several squadrons of cavalry march past, who in 
their turn fell far short of British cavalry. 

On 11th October the news of Seward's death was published ; 
it appeared to create much sensation. Seward was an able man, 
but his day had gone past ; he was well known for his anti- 
British feelings, and on that account rendered himself very 
popular with a certain party ; however, his death seemed to be 
much regretted. In the evening, the hall and corridors of the 
Fifth Avenue were literally crowded and besieged by people dis- 
cussing the political aspect of affairs, and the near prospect of 
the Presidential election. We visited Booth's theatre, and had 
the pleasure of seeing Boucicault in one of his famous Irish 
characters. He had been acting in America for some time past, 
and this was one of his last appearances in New York, before leav- 
ing for England. Next day we had a drive again in the Central 
Park. A month's absence had made a marked difference in the 
foliage of the trees, now assuming their winter garb. As the 
weather was beginning to feel cold, one could observe the 
heavier clothing requisite by those taking carriage and pedestrian 
exercise. Amongst the animals connected with the Zoological 
apartment we missed our old friend the sea-lion, who had been 
transferred by Barnum to other quarters. 

Being very desirous to see another lion, — in other words, to 
hear the celebrated Rev. Ward Beecher preach, we were favoured, 
through the kindness of Mr E. Yates, with tickets of admission, 
as without these it would have been an impossibility to have 
our wish gratified, so crowded is Plymouth Church every Sun- 
day to listen to the eloquence of the celebrated preacher. The 
church is situated in Brooklyn, so we had to cross the ferry, 



77 



and on our arrival had just to present our tickets to obtain good 
seats near to the platform. The church was crowded by a most 
intellectual looking and well-dressed congregation. The interior 
was decoi-ated with flowers and hot-house plants, and the plat- 
form especially was highly ornamented. We had just been 
comfortably seated when a highly respectable looking gentle- 
man came up and tapped me gently on the shoulder, at the 
same time apologising for his seeming rudeness ; he politely 
inquired if I belonged to the World. I, taken by surprise, and 
•not comprehending what he meant, replied sharply, " No ; I am 
a Scotsman." Our friend immediately explained that he had 
taken me for one of the staff of the World office, a daily paper 
published in New York. So this amusing episode passed off 
agreeably. 

Mr Ward Beecher made his appearance at half-past ten ; he 
is a man of perhaps fifty, has a pleasing and attractive expres- 
sion of countenance, indicative of genuine devout feeling. He 
wears neither whisker nor moustache, but has a fine head of 
flowing dark hair worn in primitive fashion. The proceed- 
ings commenced by a female artiste of the choir singing a hymn. 
Mr Beecher then gave a short but fervent prayer, another hymn 
was sung by the choir, accompanied by the soul-inspiring strains 
of a splendid organ. The preacher then read a portion of the 
Bible, followed by a prayer. He took for his text Philippians, 
3d chapter, 12th to 15th verses, from which he preached an 
eloquent and impressive sermon, the substance of it being to 
urge the believer to go on till the end, and not rest satisfied 
with any good work he might have done, but to press forward 
with all diUgence as one running a race. Middle-aged persons, 
he said, sometimes contented themselves with thinking they 
have done enough, and will leave further labour to younger 
men; he repudiated that idea, and earnestly, in an eloquent 
peroration, urged upon all never to weary in welldoing, but to 
labour with diligence to the end of their lives. The service was 
concluded by the congregation joining in singing in a most 
solemn manner that beautiful hyum, "Rest for the Weary." 
Sometimes the rev. preacher grew very animated, and entered 
heart and soul jnto his subject ; still he had nothing of that 
theatrical stj'le of preaching we had a sample of at Chicago, 



78 



Mr Beecher, your readers are aware, is brother to the celebrated 
authoress of " Uncle Tom's Cabin," Mrs Beecher Stowe. It is 
needless to say we were much pleased and gratified at having 
an opportunity of hearing such a world-renowned divine. 

Sunday appears to be well kept in New York, and even Broad- 
way is comparatively deserted — a striking contrast to its con- 
dition during the remainder of the week. The churches are 
well attended, there being many celebrated preachers of all 
persuasions. At first sight one would naturally conclude that 
the shops are open, as the windows are shutterless — a custom 
adopted in this and other American cities for the sake of 
greater security from burglars, especially at night, when the 
gaslight enables the police to see the interiors of the shops, and 
thus make sure that all is safe. 

On Monday the streets again teem with cabs, carriages, pon- 
derous waggons, and crowds of pedestrians intent on business. 
Tramways are much in vogue in New York; fares are low — 
only 5 cents., or 24d in our money, for several miles distance ; 
they are generally neatly fitted up, and have good horses. 
The omnibuses are smaller than those in use in our large cities ; 
they have no conductors, but a leather strap attached to the 
door runs along the top of the omnibus to the driver's seat, 
and the act of opening the door checks the whip, causing him 
to pull up. The passenger on entering touches a spring-bell and 
hands his fare through a small opening to the driver. The strap 
acts in the same manner when anyone wishes to alight — he 
opens the door, and the driver stops in a moment. In the 
crowded thoroughfare of Broadway stepping out of an omnibus, 
and piloting your way in a zig-zag manner to the footpath, 
through a dense mass of carriages, is no easy matter. We may 
note that the "'bus" men are provided with a huge umbrella 
fixed to their seat so as to protect them either from rain or 
sun. 

It is a common custom in New York for families to live in a 
hotel. We suppose they find it cheaper than keeping up 
establishments of their own ; those who do so miss the com- 
forts of home life, but the Americans, especially the ladies, are 
so fond of company that this mode of housekeeping suits their 
taste. The politeness of American gentlemen to ladies is very 



79 



marked. If a lady by any chance is met in the corridor or 
staircase of a hotel the gentleman doffs his hat at once. 

On the morning of the 14th October we left for an excursion 
to New Haven, Connecticut, on the Boston line of railway. In 
the train we met an intelligent gentleman, whom we at once 
set down as a Scotchman, a surmise which proved correct. 
Strange to say, he came from Dumfries, which he left at ten 
years of age for the New World, and had been for many years 
in business in New York, so America might now be called 
his adopted home. In the same carriage was a young China- 
man, dressed in the full costume of the Celestial Empire, with 
flowing pig-tail. His appearance showed that he was of high 
caste. He could speak a little English, and was on his way to 
a seminary at Boston. He had come from China by way of 
California, which, since the Great Pacific Eailway was opened, 
is the shortest and most direct route. We passed along Long 
Island Sound, per railway, and had many delightful peeps of 
the mighty ocean; the day being clear and bracing, the sea 
looked lovely, studded as it was with white sailed vessels. As 
usual in America, we crossed many creeks or arms of the sea, 
and passed several towns of importance, such as Stamford and 
Norwalk. We reached New Haven about mid-day. This is a 
large and thi'iving city, seventy-six miles from New York, famed 
for its manufactui'es, as are most of the cities in Connecticut. 
New Haven has a large amount of shipping, it is beautifully 
situated, and is one of the most interesting places in New 
England ; it has a more antique appearance than is usual with 
American cities ; the streets are shaded with magnificent trees. 
In the public park, in the centre of the town, stands Yale 
College, one of the most famous and ancient seats of learning 
in America. Near the college is ixn elegant monument erected 
to the memory of an English gentleman from Kent, who, 
during the reign of Charles the First, came over and settled 
amongst the Puritan fathers of New England. 

After a pleasant day's excursion we returned in the afternoon 
to New York, much delighted with our trip, and spent the 
remainder of the day in seeing more of the lions of New York, 
amongst others the Jewish synagogue, the magnificence of which 
shows that Jews are as rich there as in other parts of the world. 



80 

Our stay in America was now fast coming to a close ; however 
much pleased with our visit, the prospect of seeing our friends 
at home was now uppermost in our minds, and the thought of 
"home, sweet home," deprived the dreaded voyage across the 
Atlantic of all its terrors. On the morning of the 16th Oc- 
tober we paid a farewell visit to Wall Street and other places, 
and bade adieu to many kind friends, from all of whom we had 
received the greatest attention and hospitality, and in the 
afternoon embarked from the Cunard Wharf, in Jersey City, in 
the steam-ship iZwssm— Captain Cook. We left the shores of 
Columbia with pleasant recollections of our five weeks' stay. 
America has immense resources of every kind ; it has much 
variety in climate, minerals, manufactures ; agi'iculture, to any 
extent; primeval forests, magnificent rivers, enormous lakes, j 
gigantic railways, such as the Great Pacific, extending 3000 
mHes. However, with all these advantages, the American sys- 
tem of government has great defects, the tone of morality and 
uprightness amongst public men does not rank so high as in our 
own country, and the Americans boast and talk too much of 
their free institutions. We at home, less loquacious, enjoy the 
blessings of our free and time-honoured constitution, which has 
stood the brunt of centuries " and braved the battle and the 
breeze." The United States has a mixed race of inhabitants- 
Irish and German, Americans, &c., &c. ; consequently, they have 
not the same love of nationality as we have. The Yankees are 
great travellers— when they speak of crossing the ocean they 
say they are going to Eui'ope, not generally to England, Scot- 
land, &c., these places being in their opinion too small for 
their large ideas. Just before sailing, our old ship Cuba 
anchored in the river, direct from Liverpool. We expected 
letters from home by her, but provokingly there was no time 
to get them from the Post Ofi&ce before we started. The 
signal-gun was fired at a quarter past 4 afternoon, and the Russm 
was afloat. She is a fine vessel, rather longer than the Cuba} 
but fitted up in much the same style. The Russia is reckoned 
one of the crack or swell boats on the Cunard line for speed, 
but does not excel the Cuba in respect of comfort or attendance 
Captain Cook is an Englishman ; his manner is more reserved 
than that of our old friend and countryman, Capt. Moodie. 



81 



THe other officers of the ship were pleasant and agreeable. The 
quantity of coal requisite for these steamships is enormous ; 
the average consumption per day is eighty tons for screw 
steamers, those with paddles using no less than one hundred 
and sixty tons, which is no joke in these days of dear fuel. 
There were 140 cabin passengers on board the Russia, including 
Sir Frederick Arrow, Mr Potter, President of the Grand Trunk 
Railway of Canada, who, with Mr Allport, the respected 
manager of the Midland Company of England, had been inspect- 
ing the Grand Trunk Railway. The afternoon was clear and 
invigorating, with a steady breeze. The coast of Long Island 
looked superb in the light of the settiug sun. We steamed 
on, and off Sandy Hook passed the Guion steamship Nevada, 
that had left New York the same afternoon, and many conjec- 
tures were made on board as to which ship would first reach the 
shores of Old England. It afterwards proved that the Nevada 
was a slow sailer, as the Bussia arrived in port three days before 
her. Singularly enough, the Nevada carried the United States 
mails, as from false notions of economy the American Govern- 
ment have transferred their mails from the Cunard line to 
the Guion and White Star lines. The Cunard Company still, 
however, carry the English mails out to America. For a few 
days the weather was favourable, although much colder than 
on our passage out. Fewer deck amusements were carried on, 
the nights were longer, and card-playing in the saloon was still 
in the ascendant. The monotony at night, especially Avhen the 
sea was rough, was relieved by the pleasant and cheery voice 
of the watch on deck calling out every hour " All's well." On 
Wednesday, the 23d October, it began to blow a heavy gale, 
and we were going before the wind at a tremendous rate. 
During the night the gale increased, and on looking out the 
folloAving morning we found and felt that it was blovring a per- 
fect hurricane, with rain and sleet, and the ocean had a most 
frightful aspect. A storm at sea one thousand miles out on 
the great Atlantic is one of the grandest and most temble 
Bights imaginable. The tempest-tossed ocean in aU its fury 
lashed into rage with its foam-crested billows running moun- 
tain high, Vv-ave after wave dashing over our noble vessel, which 
reels and staggers under the shock, timbers creaking, the wind 



82 



howling, above which you ever and anon hear the voices of 
the gallant tars at their various posts of duty, — all this tends to 
inspire the boldest heart with dread and awe. You look up at 
the wild raving sky and then at the'huge crested waves threaten- 
ing you with instant engulfment, and for succour if need be you 
fix your eyes steadfastly on the ship's boats, then you are 
appalled at the thought that they could not for one moment 
live in such a sea ; another tremendous wave appears in the 
distance threatening at this time to overwhelm you ; you resign 
yourself to your supposed fate, and solemnly await the end 
whatever it may be ; a whole lifetime flits before yovir eyes, 
and the mind wanders back to the many kind friends left 
behind. This terrible sea providentially passes over us, and our 
gallant ship proudly steams on in safety through the surging 
ocean, the storm gradually lulls, we breathe more freely, thank- 
ful for once that we have escaped the terrors of the mighty 
deep ; but as we speak from a landsman's point of view, it 
might not have appeared so awful to a jolly tar accustomed 
to the freaks of Father Neptune. We were now fast nearing 
the Irish coast. The sea still ran high, so much so that the 
Captain of the liiissia thought it prudent not to call at Queens- 
town, considering the state of the weather, to the disappoint- 
ment of parties from the Emerald Isle. We had calculated on 
reaching Liverpool diu'ing the night of the 25th October, but 
unfortunately were half-an-hour too late for crossing the bar, 
the pilot being inexorable on that point. We were compelled 
to anchor until morning, when we steamed safely into Liver- 
pool, having accomplished the voj^age from New York to the 
bar in eight days twenty-three hours, at the rate of 330 miles a 
day run, being one of the shortest passages ever made by the 
Russia. We i)arted with many kind friends perhaps never 
again to meet in this voyage of life. We were two months 
absent from home, during which we had travelled upwards of 
nine thousand miles. Eight glad we were to set foot on our 
own shores and meet our friends at home, who, whether on the 
broad Atlantic, the backwoods of Canada, or the prairies of the 
Far West, had been ever in our thoughts. 



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